Our Norwegian Cruise to the Bahama Islands

Summary:  A Unique Experience, To Be Sure

This past week Debbie and I did something we’ve never done before and something I said I had no interest in: we went on an all-inclusive ocean cruise.

It was back in June when our friends David & Deb let us know they’d found a very good deal on a short Norwegian Cruise Line excursion off of Florida’s east coast with ports of call in Key West and three islands in the Bahamas: Freeport at Grand Bahama, Nassau in New Providence, and the Great Stirrup Cay in the Berry Islands. This cruise was originally scheduled for a port of call at Havana, Cuba, but all of that came to an end in early June and cruise lines like NCL were left scrambling to refill staterooms as their Cuba-bound guests began to cancel their trip.

We mulled it over, noting that we were already committed to a short-notice, 10-day catamaran cruise in the British Virgin Islands with our friends Ryan & Jeanette for July.  We really didn’t have two “big trips” in our budget and, as I said, the idea of being on a “booze cruise” has never been all that appealing.  However, life’s too short not to seize upon opportunities as they present themselves, so on 22 June we booked the cruise and blocked-out our calendars for 28 September through 5 October.

We headed to Florida for the cruise last Saturday, 28 September, with David & Deb. David had always planned on making the 8-hour drive to Port Canaveral so there was no added expense for airfare. But, we had expenses for two nights in hotels and incidental costs for fuel, parking and meals, noting we were going to add an extra day to the pre-cruise drive so we could spend a 1/2 day at the Kennedy Space Center on 29 September.  The drive down to Daytona Beach on the 28th was uneventful and we had a great evening with dinner at the Ocean Overlook Restaurant and Tiki Bar, then had the unexpected pleasure of a live concert at the Daytona Beach band shell by a Pink Floyd tribute band we watched from Sloppy Joe’s bar at the nearby entertainment complex.

The visit to the Kennedy Space Center (KSC) on Sunday, 29 September, was well worth the added expense and extra night of lodging ahead of our cruise.  In fact, I’m pretty sure we’ll go back for a follow-up visit at some point as there was just so much to see and do at the KSC Visitor’s Complex.  We ended the day with dinner at the Pier 220 restaurant in Titusville, a place we found during a trip we made in May.

The cruise was definitely a new experience for me.  I think Debbie enjoyed it and probably would have enjoyed it a lot more if I hadn’t been struggling with insomnia and stressed out by certain aspects of the cruising experience since I tried not to grouse out loud and, instead, vented to her while we were alone.  But, thinking back on it:

  • We enjoyed our time with David & Deb, that’s for certain.
  • We also had a chance to meet and chat with quite a few other very nice and interesting guests, which was really great: it’s what we always look forward to when we step out into large, diverse groups of people.
  • There were a couple of really talented entertainers on the ship, André and Jason, who spent most of their time entertaining guests in the Windjammer Lounge and, well, that’s where we always seemed to end up each night.
  • Being a smaller ship, we found it very easy to get places quickly and never got lost which was nice. 
  • The overwhelmingly Filipino staff was, in general, very good, attentive to our needs and several of the bar keepers and waiters and waitresses were truly exceptional and a joy to interact with.
  • Thankfully for us, the ship was well below full-capacity such that, other than the first day when we boarded and all of the guests were in common areas awaiting the release of their staterooms, we never felt like it was too crowded or that waiting lines for meals, etc., were too long.
  • As for the ports of call:
    • The very short visit to Key West in Florida late in the afternoon didn’t give us much time to do anything new noting we’d already visited the various tourist attractions that most of the guests headed towards during our past visits.
    • We lost the stop at Freeport on Grand Bahama when hurricane Dorian devastated the island and port back on 2 September.  However, we actually enjoyed the day at sea that replaced that particular port-of-call.
    • We did have enough time on Nassau on New Providence to get out and see a few sights while stretching our legs which was nice.
    • Great Stirrup Cay was also nice in that it gave us a chance to wiggle our toes in the sand and ocean, enjoy some sun, or do some exploring while still enjoying some of the food and beverage amenities we had on the ship.

So, will I do another one?  Frankly, I’m still not sure.  I think Debbie is up for a second cruise, perhaps the Western Caribbean going out of Miami.  But, then again, she’s also ready for a return to the British Virgin Islands so travel may truly be her growing passion.  Therefore, it really comes back to me and the jury is still out on future cruise ship trips as I continue to reflect on this experience before signing on for another cruise.

Now, on to the details from each day and a few photos.  Note that some of the photos are one’s either I or David took during our 7-day adventure, but there are also quite a few “stock photos” I’ve porached and included from the Internet, hopefully in good taste and in accordance with the Fair Use Act: my thanks to those who do freely share their photos for non-commercial users like myself.


Pre-Departure: Getting Ready to Leave on Saturday

On Wednesday, we ended up having dinner with our friends David & Deb over at Ceilo Blue for one last pre-trip discussion ahead of our 9:00am departure for Daytona and Orlando on Saturday.  It was a great time as always and we’re just about ready to begin packing for the 7-day adventure including 5-days on the high seas in a somewhat more spacious vessel than the 42′ catamaran we shared with our friends Ryan & Jeanette back in July.  Of course, there were just 5 of us on the catamaran whereas we’ll be sharing the cruise ship with 2,600 other people so we’ll see how that works out.

Friday was all about getting ready for our trip with David & Deb.  Most of what we did was a bunch of “this and that” and nothing really all that interesting.


Saturday: The Adventure Begins With the Drive to Daytona Beach

As usual, I was up at 6:00am and got to work finishing up a short Weekly Journal to cover Monday through Friday so I could get that out in the mailbox and off to my parents since we’d be somewhat incommunicado for the next 7 days.  I will say, I was not feeling all that great and even a little breakfast didn’t do all that much to help perk me up.

Debbie was up a short time later and we had all of our final packing done and our three pieces of luggage downstairs well ahead of our planned departure at 9:00am. David & Deb were coming by to pick us up for the 7-hour trip down to Daytona Beach, Florida, where we’d spend the night near the Boardwalk. This would give us a short, one-hour drive to Titusville where we’d tour the Kennedy Space Center (KSC) on Sunday and then spend the night before heading to Port Canaveral where we’d embark on the Norwegian Sun for our 5-day cruise to Key West and Bahamas.

It was a relatively uneventful but long drive down to Daytona.  We stopped at an Applebee’s in Tifton, Georgia, for lunch and made two other short stops for bio breaks and to refuel David’s truck before arriving at Hilton’s Daytona Beach Oceanfront Resort at 4:30pm.  David & Deb have stayed there a few times in the past and it was our first visit. Quite honestly, for a luxury hotel, the Hilton was looking very tired and in need of a refresh.  Thankfully, due to David’s generosity with his travel points, we wouldn’t be paying the full rate and, well, the view was pretty nice.

It was around 5:30pm when we headed out along the Daytona Boardwalk and made our way 3 blocks to one of our favorite places, the Ocean Overlook Restaurant and Tiki Bar for cocktails and dinner.  As we made our way we came to the 43-year old Mayan Inn on Ocean Boulevard next to the Ocean Overlook and saw it was undergoing renovation and a name change after being sold for $10.5M back in April.  It has changed owners a few times over the years, but the distinctive bright yellow & red hotel with it’s Aztec theme always remained the same and was a permanent landmark near the Daytona Boardwalk and Pier. Somehow a ‘Comfort Inn’ just won’t have the same panaché as the funky yellow and red Mayan Inn.

When we arrived at the Tiki Bar the afternoon karaoke DJ was spinning for the last singer of the day who was actually very, very good.  The music was a bit loud, but that’s sort of what we expect at the Tiki bar. We found a couple seats near the back patio that was open to the beach so we had a lovely view, a nice breeze and it helped to keep the sound down a bit.  Our waitress was Jenny-on-the-spot which is true of nearly all of our visits to the Tiki Bar and, after a round of cocktails, we had our dinners in front of us as the DJ began the early evening entertainment.  David & I enjoyed the 10oz Top Sirloin steaks while Debbie had a lovely Salmon and Deb had the Ahi Tuna.  Everything was wonderful, especially the view, which is one of the reasons we keep going back for dinner.  It’s just a fun place with a great vibe, good food and not all that expensive.

From the Tiki Bar we headed back towards the Bandshell and entertainment complex where we camped-out at the Daytona Sloppy Joe’s bar and listened to the final night of music in Daytona’s Summer Concert Series.

The band Wall of Echoes, a Pink Floyd tribute band, was performing and they were quite good. In fact, it’s worth archiving the entire list of bands from the 19-week / 42-night long concert series so here they are:

We called it a night after Sloppy Joe’s, but it was a great way to end the day.


Sunday: A Visit to the Kennedy Space Center

I was up early but did my best not to disturb Debbie as we weren’t scheduled to meet David & Deb for breakfast until around 9:00am.  So, the vacation blog updates for Friday and Saturday wouldn’t get done until perhaps Monday.  We had about a 15-minute wait for a table as we apparently hit the restaurant at “rush hour” but it gave our friends enough time to catch up and join us at 9:20am. It was a good breakfast, but the kind of food that leaves us feeling a bit bloated, e.g., higher in fat and sodium than what we normally eat.

It was around 11:00am when we headed out to collect David’s truck from the valet and then make out way over to the Kennedy Space Center (KSC) at Cape Canaveral, Florida.  It was just over an hour’s drive to the KSC Visitor Center parking lot.

The minute we arrived it was very apparent NASA had turned-over the operation of their visitor center & tours to a 3rd party, commercial firm, Delaware North, as it had the look and feel of Universal Studios more so than a US Government managed facility.  It’s not that it was a bad thing, but it definitely had that “shopping mall” or “tourist park” aura about it where everything other than the truly amazing history, images and hardware that our U.S. tax dollars paid for was good but not great and geared towards up-selling and revenue generation.

Note: It was a bit odd, if not disconcerting, to see the KSC Security folks dressed-out for “combat” with full camo gear, body armor toting GAU-5A (aka, AR-15) at the visitor complex given the current national security posture.  Then again, I’m fairly sure the “security” at KSC is also outsourced and managed by Wackenhut, EG&G or one of the other 3rd party logistics and support companies that are used by a lot of our federal agencies. The militarization of our police forces is just one of those things that doesn’t sit well with me as police are supposed to serve a very different function from the military and that requires a different mindset.

Setting aside those initial impressions, I will say it was well worth the visit to see in person all of the very historic space vehicles, support equipment and launch facilities I’ve only otherwise seen at KSC watching the always televised space launches during the Mercury, Gemini, Apollo and Space Shuttle programs since the early 1960’s.  I’d seen a lot of similar NASA hardware from the space program at the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum and spent a lot of time at Edwards Air Force Base, to include being on hand and working “security” during two shuttle landings, but that’s a far cry from seeing the massive Saturn V rocket, the Vehicle Assembly Building, launch pads and Mobile Launch Platform “crawlers” that reside at KSC.

Here’s what we ended up doing during our 4.5 hour visit to KSC, noting that it would be very easy to spend several days seeing and doing “everything” there is available, albeit sometimes at an additional cost:

  • The Bus Tour:  A motorcoach with a very entertaining driver and tour guide took us for a window tour of the KSC Vehicle Assembly Building (VAB), Launch Control Center and Launch Complex 39 where we found the 2nd of the two crawlers sitting at Launch Pad 39B.  The bus tour is definitely a must-do at the visitor’s center as that’s the only way you can see some of the most interesting things at KSC, e.g., the VAB, Launch Complex 39, crawlers and an actual Saturn V rocket.

  • The Apollo / Saturn V Center: The bus dropped us off at the Apollo / Saturn V Rocket visitor center where one of the three remaining and unused Saturn V Rockets remains on display.  I’m somewhat torn that there are three “excess” Saturn V rockets as, in current-year dollars, they would cost nearly $1.6 billion dollars each to build and are now merely displays but, they are impressive.  While at the Apollo / Saturn V visitor center we also saw an Apollo Command module, a Lunar Module, a couple of Lunar Rovers and had lunch at the Moon Rock Café.  Let me note, the 1st photo below was taken by David with his phone and it’s rather spectacular, gallery-quality to be sure and captures the scale of the Saturn V.

  • Atlantis Visitor Center: After the return trip by bus from the Apollo / Saturn V Center, we walked to the nearby Atlantis Center where we had a chance to see the now-retired Space Shuttle Atlantis.  While not as awe-inspiring at the Apollo / Saturn V launch vehicle, the Space Shuttle is truly an amazing machine in terms of what they were able to do with them. As to whether or not they were cost effective, the commercial entry of Space-X and the various other commercial partnerships between NASA, Boeing, Lockheed-Martin, Raytheon, Space-X and now Blue Origin will tell.

  • What We Didn’t See:  A lot…  Again, you could easily spend two full days at the Space Center seeing and doing everything there is to see and do.  It’s not inexpensive at $57 per person, although as Seniors we were able to get our tickets for a mere $50 per person.  But, definitely a must-see for anyone with a passing interest in what was accomplished as well as the scale of the U.S. Space Program.

From the KSC we headed over to our hotel for the night, the Titusville Hampton Inn.  After checking in and getting settled for the one-night stay before we headed to our cruise ship on Monday, we made our way over to Pier 220 restaurant at Sand Point next to the A. Max Brewer Memorial Parkway Bridge in Titusville.  Debbie and I discovered Pier 220 when we came down to Titusville in May so we could spend a day enjoying the Canaveral National Seashore and it did not disappoint.  We had a great time, a great meal and got to enjoy some great live reggae music while we were there.  It was around 8:15pm when we headed back to the hotel as Pier 220 closes around 8:00pm on Sundays, depending on how busy they are.  The crowd was definitely thinning as the gals working the bar made it pretty obvious they were ready to call it a night and had started cleaning up and shutting things down.

We finished our day with Debbie watching Sunday Night Football and me catching up on email and the like.


Monday – Day 1: Departure from Port Canaveral & Exploring the Norwegian Sun

I made the mistake of falling asleep around 9:30pm and found myself awake at 1:30am.  I did my best not to disturb Debbie while still trying to rest until giving up at 6:00am when I headed down to the Hampton Inn’s lobby breakfast bar so I could allow Debbie to sleep a bit longer.  It also allowed me to get caught up on my journal and take care of some banking and other on-line activity before we left port on the Norwegian Sun as I was making a conscious effort to not have WiFi and be off-line for a few days. It was a little before 8:00am when Debbie came and joined me.

Just before 10:00 we had ourselves repacked and the bags down at David’s truck.  David & Deb came out with their bags moments later and, after getting our special cruise ship baggage tags affixed to our luggage, we rolled-out of the parking lot and make the 25-minute drive to the Port Canaveral cruise ship terminal.

It wasn’t an all-that different process from checking in at the airport with a bag drop, then parking in a nearby parking structure with a short walk to the security screening and cruise check-in desks.  The key to fast processing was having your cruise documents and passports out, which we did. And, well, not having too much “stuff” in your carry-on bag.  The cruise line suggests taking anything you’ll need for the first few hours of your time on the ship with you as it usually takes them several hours to get the state rooms ready for guests and luggage moved out of the baggage hold to the 968 state rooms.  Given we’d spend most of our early time exploring the ship, participating in the lifeboat drill and having lunch, we figured we’d only need some pool attire, if that.  So, we were in good shape using my computer bag as our one carry-on.

After clearing the check-in process and receiving our on-board ID / room key / charge cards we spent about 40 minutes sitting in the pre-boarding area. That gave me enough time to set-up the NCL smart phone app that would allow us to see the daily schedule of activities and also included an on-ship messaging system that would allow David and me to keep in touch and coordinate meeting times and places.  Like a lot of things, NCL provides this at an additional cost but it was worth it.

The ship was a bit of a crowded mess once we were aboard given none of the guests could go to their staterooms.  What that meant is all 1,700 guests either headed to bars for a drink or lunch at one of the five restaurants. We eventually did likewise and after lunch we found our go-to bar for the cruise… the Sports Bar on Deck 11 at the aft end of the ship.  Our bar keepers were Keith and Leeno and we stayed there until we were told we could go to our staterooms at 2:00pm, just about 40 minutes ahead of the muster / lifeboat drill.

Our room was located on the starboard side of Deck 8 near the bow and was the furthest-forward balcony stateroom. We still didn’t have our luggage, but it was good to see where our room was. Interestingly enough, we had been placed in a handicap accessible room which meant it was twice as large as the other balcony staterooms, to include the bathroom.  In fact, I’d describe it as being about the same size as a normal hotel room, so that was nice.  Our friends, David & Deb’s stateroom was on Deck 10 at the completely opposite end of the ship, which was a running joke as our booking agent said she said she’d make sure we had rooms that were close to each other and, no kidding, our rooms were literally as far apart as any two balcony suites could be on this particular ship.

We stayed in our room until they kicked off the lifeboat drill at 2:45pm, a pre-departure exercise mandated by United Nations International Maritime Organization’s Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) regulations, adopted following the sinking of the Titanic. At the start of the drill all 1,700 guests were required to head to Deck 6 where all of the lifeboats are launched, “muster” at a pre-designated lifeboat station and practice being positioned for the 5 across seating in the lifeboats.  David & Deb had suggested we not arrive too early as there would invariably be several guests who would either arrive late or not at all.  Sure enough, that’s what we observed…  lots of guests either wandering around lost despite all of the instructions and even their muster area designator being printed on their ID/RoomKey/Charge card.  Clearly, some people just didn’t want to be bothered with the process and really didn’t care that everyone else who arrived as required had to stand around waiting for them.  There were others who were simply doing the best that they could, noting there seemed to be an inordinate number of physically challenged guests on this particular cruise.

Note: I think I’ve previously mentioned that this 5-day cruise to the Bahamas was originally scheduled to include Havana, Cuba, as a part of call which had to be cancelled when the U.S. tourism rules for Cuba were tightened up last spring.  Norwegian Cruise Lines was obligated to grant refunds for most of the guests who had booked the cruise specifically for the stop in Cuba and struggled to re-sell the cruise even with deep discounts.  As noted, we had about 1,700 guests on the ship that could otherwise hold 2,400 guests and 900 crew members at maximum capacity. So, even with the deeply discounted fares, the small-size cruise ship was well below capacity.  But, as noted, in the weeks leading up to the sailing date staterooms that would have sold for the already discounted rate of $1,500 all-inclusive for two adults were further discounted and marketed towards retirees who live within an hour of Port Canaveral based on what we learned during out time talking with other guests on the cruise.  We suspect that’s why there seemed to be an inordinate number of older guests who weren’t exactly spry, never mind a lot of retired folks who seem to take a lot of cruises once fares drop to “nothing” to quote one such guest.

It was around 3:20pm when the drill was completed and, on a hunch, we returned to our room and found our luggage had been delivered.  That allowed us to get settled into the room before exploring the Norwegian Sun and then heading back to the Sports Bar, which was nice.

Below is a view of the deck layouts that will expand if you click on it. However, even then it’s a bit small; so, for a full-size version click HERE.  Again, you can see just how far apart our stateroom on forward-end of Deck 8 was from David & Deb’s stateroom at the aft-end of Deck 10.

What was somewhat interesting is how much the ship was rolling in the heavy 40kt winds and moderately-rough 8-foot seas, something even the crew acknowledged when we asked “is this normal” and they said ‘no.’  We stayed at the Sports Bar until around 5:30pm and decided we’d meet at the Seven Seas  restaurant at 6:30pm for dinner.  It was one of the three “included” dinner restaurants, noting there are seven other “premium” restaurants we could have patronized for an additional fee or ala carte priced meals.  Despite the upscale appearance of Seven Seas, the food served was good but not great, on par with just about any value-priced chain restaurant.

After dinner we ended up spending most our time in the Windjammer Lounge where they had a really excellent pianist and singer, André Mieux, doing pop-music melodies but with a more mellow and relaxing personal twist. Another singer, Jason Graham, came on afterwards who played complete songs from the 70’s, 80’s and 90’s which allowed Debbie and me to actually get in some dancing in the passage way next to the Windjammer as it did not have a dance floor.

Right next to the Windjammer was the Bliss Nightclub which had a dance floor, stage for live bands and a DJ. The DJ was good and Debbie and I jumped back and forth between the two rooms so we could get in some dancing and still spend time with David & Deb who were more than happy to stay seated and enjoy the live music in the Windjammer.

All-in-all, it was a good first day and I’m trying to be cautiously optimistic I’ll make it through the five-day cruise in good spirits as I have found the behaviour, lack of consideration and manners of some other guests is getting on my nerves.


Tuesday – Day 2: Pool Time, Yellow-Rain and a visit to Key West

I will say I slept quite well last night despite the pitching ship and howl of the wind coming around our balcony with its less than air-tight sliding door.  I was up at 6:00am, as usual, and once again just did my best not disturb Debbie as I really didn’t have anywhere I could go without making a lot of noise given how heavy the doors to the room and even the balcony were.

It was a little after 8:00am when Debbie and I were both up and headed to find breakfast. We ended up at The Great Outdoors Café with its covered buffet line and outdoor seating at the aft-end of the ship.  While the norm for many guests appeared to be “stack your plate with as much food as it will hold” we opted to go lite.  I made a small sandwich out of an English muffin with some meat and cheese topped with salsa and jalapenos.  It was tasty and all the food I needed.  Debbie had a small serving of eggs, some bacon and a yogurt.  As for those plates piled-high with food, some guests had no problem cleaning their plates, but I’d guess half of the food that was taken from the free, all-you-can-eat buffet was left sitting for the bussers to collect: so wasteful.

We’d put our swimsuits on under shorts and tops when we headed to breakfast and brought our towels, etc. with us so we could head to the pool after breakfast. Thankfully, we found a few chaise lounges next to the pool where we spent the rest of our morning.  I’d brought my laptop along so I could keep up with my journal before my memory lapsed.  Our friends David & Deb joined us about an hour later and we had a good time relaxing at the pool up and until lunch time. While we were there we met several really nice folks, including John & Barb who were seated next to us at the pool and Melinda without the da.

Throughout our time at the pool the ship’s maintenance team was banging away at something in the ship’s funnel / exhaust stack area which was annoying but otherwise seemingly harmless.  However, we were apparently ahead of schedule for our port of call in Key West so the ship essentially “parked” out in the Atlantic Ocean and ended up sitting with the aft end facing into the wind which allowed whatever the yellowish-orange exhaust flowing out of the exhaust stacks in the funnel to flow over the pool area.  Unfortunately, included in that exhaust was a saltwater mist – a by-product of the scrubber system used to meet environmental controls on ship engine exhaust emissions – that didn’t seem to be cleaning the sulfur out of the exhaust so much as it was sending it into the air and all over the ship and everything on it, including passengers, the clothes they were wearing and any food or drink they were consuming.  I first noticed it as specs of salt began to cover the LCD display on my laptop.  It was only a while later that we started to see little yellow / orange specs on our bodies, towels and swimsuits which I must also assume was falling into uncovered drinks.  In fact, when I got up from my chair my green and white pool towel had a huge orange stain where my back had been leaching the salty yellowish-orange solution off with my sweat.  As I observed this I quickly realized this was why so much of the ship’s white painted structure surrounding the exhaust funnel as well as the large canvas canopy over The Great Outdoors Café had a yellowish-orange hue.  I confirmed my suspicions regarding the exhaust-related mist with one of the ship’s officers who was out on the Oasis pool deck.

After getting our fill of pool time we headed back to The Great Outdoors Café buffet for lunch and then to our room to get cleaned up before our scheduled stop at Key West around 3:30pm. As feared, when we returned to our room we fully began to appreciate how much of the salty yellowish-orange residue was on our bodies and clothing, as the linens on our bed where we both laid down for a moment before taking showers were discolored by whatever had attached itself to our skin and sunscreen.  I attempted to wash it out of my suit, but without any success.  We put a call into the Guest Services folks to request all new linens and instructions on how to go about getting our swimsuits laundered in the hope the stains would come out; more to follow on that.  Of course, I also have some lingering concerns about what exactly was raining down on us during our time spent out-of-doors on the Norwegian Sun.

It was around 2:10pm when I headed to the very smokey Casino to pick up our disembarkment passes for Key West: the Casino was one of the few, indoor places where guests could smoke so you can only imagine how strong and thick the smoke was.  The disembarkment passes were needed as there wasn’t going to be enough room for our ship to dock at the Key West pier. Instead, the ship would dock at the Navy pier on the Naval Base at Key West, and all of the guests who were going ashore would need to be shuttled into Key West.

I wasn’t completely surprised to see about 20 people in line when I arrived at the Casino, but figured I’d have enough time to go and talk with Guest Services before it got too much longer.  When I came back 10 minutes later and got in line it had tripled in length and by 2:30 it was wrapped around the Atrium.  Thankfully, the line moved quickly once they began to handout the passes and I was still close enough to the front to secure four for “Group 1” that would allow us to be some of the first guests off the ship.

We met David & Deb in the Sports Bar at 3:00pm to wait for the ship to dock and our group number to be called, which it was around 3:45pm.  After making our way off the ship through the huddled masses of folks holding higher group numbers, we were put aboard a fleet of the Key West tourist trams and then given a short “tour” of the Navy base and adjacent parts of old town Key West before being dropped off at the north end of Duval Street.  Given we’d need to be back on the ship by 8:00pm, that really didn’t give us too much time to do a lot. On the bright side, we first came to Key West in April 2013 with David & Deb and saw all of the tourist attractions and have since then been back four times on our own. So, there really wasn’t anything we needed to see or do and we simply did a mini-Duval Crawl. We began at Flying Monkey (a must do for Debbie and me upon any arrival in Key West), browsed through a few shops, made very short stops at The Smokin’ Tuna and Hog’s Breath Saloon, and ended up at the Conch Republic where we had some appetizers just after 5:00pm.  It was around 6:00pm when we headed back to the ship via the tram as there wasn’t much else to do in the short time we had left and, well, the food and beverages on the ship were already paid for.

Back aboard the ship, Debbie and I headed to our rooms to get changed for the evening which would hopefully include some dancing. Thankfully, we had all fresh linens and towels when we returned.  It was around 7:00pm when we headed to the Sports Bar where we ordered and shared a grilled chicken sandwich as a light dinner.  David & Deb joined us about a half hour later and did something similar, i.e., ordering off the bar menu vs. heading through a buffet line.  From there we headed back to the Windjammer lounge and Bliss nightclub where we spent most of our time listening to André and his wonderful piano playing and voice.  We held out high hopes for some dancing in the Bliss nightclub after 11:00pm and what started off well with the DJ became less than enjoyable when their “utility band” In-Ovation came back on stage: they just weren’t all that good.  Not being able to find anywhere to dance we called it a night as we didn’t want to just sit around drinking and listening to music, that’s just not our thing.


Wednesday – Day 3: A Day at Sea, Pool Time & Wishing We Were Dancing

When we booked this cruise back on Saturday, 22 June while having dinner with David & Deb at Ceilo Blue, the itinerary included a port of call at Freeport on Grand Bahama Island on Day 3.  That port of call was removed from the trip and replaced with “a day at sea” after Hurricane Dorian devastated the island on 2 September.  So, instead of exploring Freeport, today we’d be spending the entire day on the ship.

I was awake at 2:00am and didn’t sleep much after that, perhaps dozing a bit and trying not to disturb Debbie who was sleeping well.  Like the previous night, the ship did a good bit of pitching and rolling in moderate seas as the wind whipped by our balcony and that, combined with a slight head cold I developed on the first night aboard ship, didn’t do much to help me sleep.  We were both up and moving around by 8:00am and stayed busy until just before 9:00am when we’d planned to meet David & Deb for breakfast. Pursuant to yesterday’s issue at the pool, we put our swimsuits out in laundry bags for pick-up by our room attendant.

It was around 9:00am when we headed off to drop our things at the pool and grab breakfast at The Great Outdoors Café but, being an hour later than yesterday and this being a day at sea, just about every chaise lounge in the pool area was already “taken” when we got there, which wasn’t a complete surprise. Heck, we even dropped our towels when we headed to breakfast on Tuesday but came right back to the pool.  I suspect a lot of the “saved” chairs we were seeing wouldn’t be occupied for several hours.  We went on to breakfast and had pretty much the same thing as yesterday as other guest’s plates were piled-high to be consumed or thrown away without nary a thought as to how wasteful it was.

We got a bit lucky when we returned to the pool as a single guest who’d laid their towel and walking cane across two chaise lounges collected their things and left.  Now, if the ship’s captain could just keep the bow in the wind and not shower guests at the pool with the yellow-orange-salty-mist. Although our friends David & Deb decided to pass on the pool today, it was another good day at the pool and we were able to meet and visit with a few other couples, which was nice.  One was a couple from Loganville, Georgia, who have worked or currently work at Emory in animal research.  Another included a gentleman who, like me, had been a Special Agent with the Force Office of Special Investigations but finished out his career working in civilian law enforcement.  I also met Sam and his wife; he was a former Special Agent and pilot for the FBI. There were several other fun and colorful folks who we chatted with at the pool, in the pool, hot tube and poolside bars.

Thankfully, they did keep the ship’s exhaust from blowing over the pool area where we stayed until making another salad for lunch at The Garden Café buffet.  From there we headed back to the room where we found it had been squared away and our swimsuits had been returned from the laundry.  I gave swimsuits a cursory look and, while Debbie’s all-black bikini looked fine, I’d have to have better lighting to know if my light-colored suit had come clean.

We made arrangements to meet David & Deb for dinner at 7:00pm in the Four Seasons restaurant.  The Four Seasons was not that much different from the Seven Seas restaurant in terms of the look, feel, food and how guests were dressed.  While NCL has clearly stated dress codes and rules for all of the various different restaurants and entertainment venues, many of the guests don’t grasp the concept of self-policing and, well, the overarching “theme” of NCL cruises is ‘Freestyle’ suggesting a come and go as you please.  As a result you have guests wearing baseball caps backwards in shorts and flip-flops, or infants and younger children in the main theater or lounges during 18-and-over shows or events.  Regardless, we had a very nice dinner and I did my best not let inconsiderate or ill-behaved guests bother me; yes, that’s a challenge as I don’t miss much and truly don’t know why it bothers me.  I guess it’s just the way I’m wired.

After dinner we made our way to the Stardust Lounge for the 9:30pm stand-up comic, whose name escapes me and I’ve somehow lost the Day 3 cruise information sheet that had his name.  Once again, despite published guidelines, signs and even an announcement that this was an over-18 show and that seat saving was not permitted, etc., we had infants and guests trying to save entire rows of seats.  The comedian wasn’t awful but he also wasn’t on par with the stand-ups we’ve seen in comedy clubs over the past few decades.  I’m not sure if it’s because cruise ship comics have to keep their jokes ‘clean’ or what, but you could just tell he was struggling to find material he could use and was not doing the same routine he would use back in Las Vegas.

From the comedy show we headed back to the Windjammer lounge and a bit more of André Mieux’s wonderful music after finding the offerings in the Bliss Lounge, Atrium and Oasis Poolside simply lacking and with very few guests on hand as a result.  Conversely, the Windjammer was becoming more crowded each night as André began to feed on the energy from the larger audience and simply got better.  It was around 11:00pm when we finally called it a night and headed for bed.  Again, André was great, but unless we’re dancing we just can’t do a late night-out.


Thursday – Day 4: A Visit to Nassau and Touring Forts Fincastle & Charlotte

It was yet another sleepless night for me and, after Debbie was up, we headed off to have breakfast at The Great Outdoors Café, as usual.  However, we would be skipping the pool, at least in the morning, since today we’d dock at Nassau on the Island of New Providence from 9:30am until 4:30pm.

We purposely decided to delay our departure from the ship so we wouldn’t be caught up in the rush of other guests heading out on paid excursions, etc. as soon as the gangway was lowered. Instead, we wandered out around 10:30am and it was interesting seeing the ship with so few guests at the pool and in the restaurants and, quite frankly, that nearly-empty pool looked like a very inviting place to spend the morning.  However, there were a few things we wanted to see at Nassau, so off we went.

Nassau Cruise Port with the Water Tower at the top of Bennet’s Hill clearly visible in the background.

Our first challenge was getting off the pier and past the phalanx of tour operators and taxi drivers trying to secure customers and fares at pumped-up prices, given the currency exchange rate between the Bahama and US dollars is 1.0000.  We passed on the taxi for our first destination which was Fort Fincastle, the Water Tower and Queen’s Staircase which sit at the top of Bennet’s Hill, about a 1-mile walk from the port and the highest point in Nassau.

To give you some context for where we went in Nassau, here’s a graphic overview:

  • Point A =  The Norwegian Sun at the Nassau Cruise Ship Pier
  • Point B = 1-mile walk (Red Line) to Fort Fincastle & Water Tower
  • Point C = Short, downhill walk (Green LIne) to the Queen’s Staircase
  • Point D = 1.7-mile Taxi Ride (Yellow Dotted Line) to Fort Charlotte
  • Point E = 0.6-mile walk to Tiki Bikini Hut for lunch
  • Point F = Straw Market stop on the 0.7-mile walk (Blue Line) back to the pier.

Debbie and I enjoyed getting out for the walk and the uphill climb didn’t bother us all that much, even with the late-morning heat and despite having a chance to see some of the non-tourist areas along our walk.  Like much of what we saw on St. John’s Island and in the British Virgin Islands, once you get away from the tourist shopping areas and restaurants, the urban areas are in 2nd and 3rd world condition.

After making our way through one of the impoverished, small home areas we popped out on Prison Lane and the uphill access road to Fort Fincastle, the water tower and the Queen’s Staircase as well as a bunch of vendors selling Chinese-made Bahama & Nassau memorabilia, branded apparel and a few trinkets.

  • Point C – The Queen’s Staircase: It was the Queen’s Staircase we came to 1st and, thankfully, we arrived at the top of the 65-step stairway instead of the bottom (see photo at below left).  We were met by an ‘official’ Bahama Bureau of Tourism volunteer guide who provided us with a brief and probably flawed oral history about the Queen’s Staircase, pretty much what you’d find in most of the local tourism guides even if it is inaccurate, followed by a solicitation for tips.  I think we tripped him $8.00, about $2/per person.  More on the staircase in a moment.
  • Point B – The Water Tower:  From there we make our way to the top of the hill where we could see, but not enter, the water tower that was decommissioned and simply remained as an observation tower.  Built in 1928, the 126’ tall tower has a 216-step staircase as well as an elevator that, prior to being closed for renovation, would enable visitors to have a spectacular view of New Providence (photo at below, right).   

  • Point B – Fort Fincastle: Next up was Fort Fincastle where we found a Bahama Bureau of Tourism ticket office where they charged $3/per person + 12% tax to see the interior of the fort with, of course, the help of an ‘official’ Bahama Bureau of Tourism volunteer guide who provided a 10-minute tour of the fort before he offered to take photos and then came the solicitation for tips.  So, $13 for the tickets and another $8 for tip.  Now, I will say I found the fort to be quite interesting in terms of how it was engineered and positioned on Bennet’s Hill.
    • As to the history of the forts, it’s important to keep in mind that in addition to having a pirate presence during the 1600’s and 1700’s, the British Colony of New Providence had been attacked and surrendered three times then ceded back to England during the 1700s. The first was by the Spanish in 1700, then by the U.S. Continental Navy & Marines in March 1776, and again by the Spanish in 1782.  It’s noteworthy that the Battle of Nassau in March 1776 was the first U.S. Marine victory after 220 U.S. Marines landed unopposed near Nassau, captured the town and secured the surrender of British Forts Nassau and Montegu after only token resistance.
    • After being re-secured by the British in 1783, they began to supplement their two existing Forts — Nassau and Montegu — with larger and more heavily armed forts: Fincastle and Charlotte/Stanley/D’Arcy.
    • Built in 1793 by Lord Dunmore, Fort Fincastle was established to defend New Providence from the Spanish, the United States, and then France… all of whom were presumed to be a threat. The seemingly unusual style of construction with a bow-like “front” is unique to the Caribbean and Americas, but was common in Europe.  While it never actually fired a cannon in defense of the island, the Fort did provide the British with an excellent vantage point to watch for vessels approaching the island and also served as a lighthouse into the 1820’s.
    • The British began ending slavery in Great Britain in 1807 and the British Parliament issued the Slavery Abolition Act in 1833 that abolished slavery in most British colonies, freeing more than 800,000 enslaved Africans in the Caribbean and South Africa as well as a small number in Canada. It received Royal Assent from William IV on August 28, 1833, and took effect on August 1, 1834.  By the 1850’s most British troops had been withdrawn from the Forts at New Providence.

  • Point C – The Queen’s Staircase: From the fort we made our way back to the Queen’s Staircase and descended the 65 remaining steps (the 66th is now buried) and marveled at the man-made canyon carved out of limestone.
    • The actual history of “why it’s there” and “when it was made” is clouded by all kinds of folklore, much of it passed along by local tour guides.  The guide’s will tell you the 102-foot staircase was hand-carved by 600 slaves between 1793 and 1794, using pickaxes and hand saws to cut their way through the solid limestone used to build Fort Fincastle, or to serve as a direct passage way for the citizens of Nassau to reach the fort in the event of an attack, or some such.  The construction period will sometimes be extended to 16 years.
    • That it was named for Queen Victoria is true, but the number of steps has nothing to do with the length of her time on England’s throne and she really didn’t have much to do with pressing for the changes in law that led to emancipating slaves throughout the British Empire, that was done by her predecessor, William IV, and was already being implemented when Victoria began her reign in 1837.
    • What is believed to be the true history is captured in a book called “Islanders in the Stream, Vol. 2” written by Gail Saunders, the Archivist of the Bahamas.  Based on her research, the “cut” through Bennet’s Hill was part of a civil works project in the 1830’s when a new sub-division for Afro-Bahamians was built on the south side of Bennet’s Hill and the Nassau government used the still allowed slave labor to cut an access road through the hill as had been done elsewhere through the ridge.  Work to make the cut began on both sides of the hill but, before the project was finished, slavery was abolished leaving deep cuts in the limestone with a massive cliff and insufficient labor to finish the project.  The quick-fix so that people could still get to Mason’s Addition was to carve steps into the 102′ cliff, a total of 66 steps. To this day, the deep cut that was started on the south side of Bennet’s hill is still there.
    • Decades later, the impressive rock passage known as 66 Steps was renamed The Queen’s Staircase” in honor of the Queen Victoria, whose reign began as William IV’s declaration to abolish slavery was enacted.
  • Regardless of the exact history, it remains one of Nassau’s most popular tourist attractions and, at least for us, It was an incredibly cool and comfortable place to escape the warm weather with its nearly tropical rainforest-like look and feel given the 100’ waterfall and lush landscape with day-long shade.

As we exited the Queen’s Staircase the original plan was to make the 1.7-mile walk over to see Fort Charlotte, the largest of the forts built on New Providence in the late 1790’s.  As we talked about our options, an enterprising tour operator / taxi driver who had a large Ford passenger van with all but 4 seats filled offered to drive us to the next fort for $20 which, while a bit more than the going rate, seemed well worth the cost to our travelling companions.

On the bright side, we ended up getting a bit of a tour out of the ride as he took us and his other passengers on the “scenic” route past the Government House (the official residence of the Governor General of the Bahamas), the historic Graycliff Hotel (built in 1740 by Captain John Howard Graysmith, a famous privateer pirate of the Caribbean), the Heritage Museum of the Bahamas and shopping district on Hill Street, the National Art Gallery, St. Francis Xavier Cathedral (the oldest Roman Catholic Church in the Commonwealth of The Bahamas, consecrated in 1887), and the John Watling’s Distillery (home to John Watling’s Rum, the “Spirit of The Bahamas”) before dropping us off at the entrance to Fort Charlotte.  So, yes… it was actually a pretty good deal even if was a drive-by tour without any stops.As we did at Fort Fincastle, we had to pass through the Bahama Bureau of Tourism ticket office where the cost was now $5.00/per person plus a 12% tax.  We also ended up grabbing a couple of genuine Diet Coke’s to refresh ourselves with – noting they only served Diet Pepsi on the ship – and Debbie picked up a set of four placemats with maps of the Bahama’s for Caroline, Charlotte, Vivian and Scarlett.  After throwing back our Diet Cokes and Debbie with her shopping bag in hand, we were introduced to our Bahama Bureau of Tourism volunteer who spent a good 20-25 minutes with us walking us to the fort while providing us with information about the surrounding area and original purpose of the fort. And, make no mistake about it, this fort was massive!  It’s hard to describe just how much limestone was used to make these three, contiguous forts that are collectively referred to as Fort Charlotte: see below.

Fort D’Arcy and Fort Stanley were expansions of the original Fort Charlotte that added gun positions and a larger magazine.  In addition to the nice, tour-book narrative provided by our guide who ended her tour with a solicitation for a tip (another $10), we wandered around the fort a bit more and I could have spent a good hour or two longer exploring and reading everything that was posted around the site.

Thankfully, our 1.5-mile walk back to the beach and cruise ship port was mostly downhill or dead flat.  After making our way to the beach and wandering past the small food shacks and bars along Junkanoo Beach we found the Tiki Bikini Hut, a very clean and well-run looking bar and restaurant.  We decided to grab some frozen drinks and lunch there so we could at least say we tried out the local fare and we were not disappointed!  The gentleman tending bar was a great guy, made really good frozen drinks for the girls and nailed his meal recommendation for us: cracked conch, a local favorite and it did not disappoint.  Even as an appetizer it was more than enough for Debbie and me to serve as our lunch.

From the Tiki Bikini Hut we wandered past the hotel construction site and into the shopping and restaurant district adjacent to the cruise ship port where we left the two Debbie’s to explore the Straw Market while David & I returned to the ship.  Yeah, there was no way I could deal with the hucksters and lay-preacher sermon being blasted over the PA system in the Straw Market so I told Debbie I’d meet her back on the ship by the pool so that she could do her shopping without me standing there being impatient.

Debbie didn’t end up being that far behind me, having found some little purses with locally-applied (unlicensed) decorations for the girls and negotiate a semi-unreasonable price ($50) from the obscenely-unreasonable starting ask ($75): welcome to Nassau and the Straw Markets.  From there, we headed off in different directions, with Debbie going to the 4:00pm origami class, followed by the 5:00pm balloon tying class.  That was fine with me as needed to go and submit a claim for my now permanently stained, chemically-altered / ruined s swimsuit with the NCL’s Customer Services folks. As the gal from China working the Guest Services counter on the claim I got the impression I was not the first guest to do so following Tuesday’s morning at the pool with the rusty mist falling over the guests.

From there I headed back to my room to get into one of my two good swimsuits and then made my way out to the pool. Debbie came by a short time later and and sat out a while as I soaked in the pool and hot tub for a bit.  After getting cleaned up and dressed for the evening we headed out to the Sports Bar where we ate dinner at the bar.  I made another chef’s salad by getting my greens at the buffet in the Garden Café and sliced meats and cheeses from the The Great Outdoors Cafe buffet, as the full buffet offerings were just not all that appealing, sort of on par with The Golden Corral.  Debbie did likewise but with fruit and other lite fare while our friends ordered off the menu at the Sports Bar.  The ship was sailing out of the harbor as we were having dinner so I was finally able to get some nice “scenic” photos.

After our somewhat later than usual dinner we made our way back to the Stardust Theater for yet another stand-up comedian, E.L. Smith.  While last night’s show wasn’t great, this one was awful.  I’m not sure he had a hot clue what kind of jokes or humor to present for the show and I’m guessing this will be his last appearance on an NCL cruise ship.  Or, perhaps not… as aside from André, Josh and a one other small, 3-piece band, the live entertainment we sought out for music and dancing was not all that great.  Our cover bands in Atlanta are far better.

As we did last night, we made the short walk to the Windjammer lounge where André was in great form and playing to a packed and appreciative audience. The larger turn-out really had him pumped up and into the gig, cracking jokes and playing with the audience, not just for the audience.  I stayed there for a while and then told Debbie that I was going to go and see if there was any dance-worthy music and/or dancing going on anywhere on the ship as well as to find some sweets as I needed a sugar fix.  I never found any dancing opportunities, but I was able to bring six fresh-baked cookies from The Great Outdoors Cafe wrapped in a cloth napkin that I shared with the two Debbie’s and David.

That was our night, as we headed back to our room around 11:00pm.  Also like most nights, David & Deb held in there at the Windjammer for another hour enjoying André and his music and the vibe of the room.


Friday – Day 5: A Visit to Great Stirrup Cay & Our Last Night of the Cruise

I’m not sure what the deal is of late, as I just can’t seem to sleep for more than 2-3 hours at the most.  Last night it was just 2 hours as I was up around 1:30am and simply rested until the ship dropped anchor around 7:00am for our port-of-call at NCL’s private island in the Berry Islands, Great Stirrup Cay (photo below)

As we did on Thursday, we didn’t get in a hurry to get off the ship and met our friends David & Deb for breakfast at 9:00am at The Great Outdoors Café on the aft end of the ship.  It was around 10:30am when we headed down to Deck 3 and boarded a tender that would motor us from the Norwegian Sun to the docks at Great Stirrup Cay.

Interestingly enough, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines leases CocoCay which is just a short swim away from Great Stirrup Cay and it was interesting to see how differently the cruise lines have developed their respective properties.  The much-smaller CocoCay (photo above) looks more like an amusement park with a massive waterpark, outdoor attractions and Royal Caribbean paid to develop a docking pier with enough deep water access to tie-up two of their monstrous, 7,000 passenger ships.

NCL still uses a fleet of tenders to shuttle 80 or so passengers and crew members at a time back and forth to the island, noting the crew members serve double-duty on the ship as well as the island. There are some other employees and contractors who live on nearby islands that commute back and forth but the lion’s share of food service and other NCL employees who had to interact with guests were from the ship, but wearing colorful “Great Stirrup Cay” polo shirts, hats and khaki shorts. As for what they’ve done on the Cay, much of it remains undeveloped but it appears they spent most of their capital building luxury cabanas and villas that guests can book for the day at, well, an additional $300 – $600 (and up) per day for up to 6 guests.  Honestly, if we were to go again and could split the cost with two other couples I might actually spring for one of these.

I’d brought along our snorkeling gear but once I saw how the lagoons looked in terms of the number of guests who were swimming, floating, kayaking, stand-up paddle boarding or snorkeling in the lagoons I was pretty sure any coral or interesting schools of all but the smallest fish had long since vanished or gone-away and gave up that idea.

 

Instead, we found a nice spot on the beach where the girls could get sun while David lounged in the shade and I pretty much stood in the shade or walked around and explored the island for the duration of our stay.  Again, it appeared as the primary focus of NCL  seems to be generating income from cabana and villa rentals located on the cay, as that’s where the majority of their investment is.  They are in the process of either rebuilding or erecting a zip line course that will allow guests to get a birds eye view of the cay and, well, guests on the cay a beach front view of tourists zip lining over their heads.  I suspect the cay looked a lot better before the hurricane as you could tell much of the sand that had likely been added to create beaches over the coral cay had been washed away or pushed inland where it buried some of the still incomplete walkways and I suspect the zip line had also been damaged.  It will be interesting to see how the cay changes if we ever come back on a subsequent cruise.

After having lunch just before 1:00pm – similar fare to what was served at The Great Outdoors Café buffet aboard the ship – we headed back to the ship via the tender.  Once we were back aboard the ship, Debbie and I headed out to the Oasis pool with the intention of getting a little pool time, but our first stop ended up being the Topsider Bar where we were two of perhaps four guests at the bar.  We ended up camping out there for a few hours visiting with the two crew members tending the bar – Fernando and Paulo – and various different guests who came up to grab a drink but stayed a while.  It was really a great time for us.  Our friends David & Deb opted for the cooler confines of the Sports Bar.

It was around 5:30pm when we headed back to our room to get cleaned up and ready for our last dinner on the ship at 7:00pm.  We ate in the Seven Seas and, while Debbie went with nice fish entrée, I had a bowl of corn chowder and a Caesar salad for dinner and passed on cocktails: I was all-inclusive cruised-out.

I will say, Debbie was looking spectacular in a pair of white shorts with a lovely white blouse and I had on my tux pants, a black dress shirt with bolo tie, my black paisley western vest and black lizard skin boots.  If only we could have found any dancing…  perhaps the biggest disappointment of the cruise.  We thought for sure we’d be kicking up our heels every night to a DJ in one of the clubs but it never happened.  And, given that we had to have our bags packed and sitting outside of our room by 11:00pm tonight — meaning we’d need to be in our travel clothes for the drive home tomorrow — there was no chance we’d find any dancing tonight since we’d need to be back in the room by 10:30pm to pack.

So, it was 8:30pm when we headed back to the room since the only “good” entertainment we found was André back in the Windjammer lounge.  Again, we really enjoyed André but had our fill of sitting and listening to music on this cruise earlier in the week.


Saturday: Disembarking & The Long Drive Back to Atlanta

We had our bags out just before 11:00pm last night and settled-in with the hope I’d get a few hours of sleep.  Sadly, it was another night of “resting” instead of sleeping waiting to hear the ship moor at the Port Canaveral.

We docked around 6:30am and I waited until Debbie was up and around at 7:15am to pack up our hand-carried items so we could head to breakfast at 8:00am to meet our friends and wait for our departure to be called.  However, there was a problem:  when I was packing up our bags last evening I packed one too many pair of Debbie’s shoes, the shoes she needed to wear off the ship.  Sure enough, Debbie would be barefoot until we cleared U.S. Customs, got off the ship and made our way to luggage claim where I could get to the bag that had all of her shoes.

The only other surprise of the morning was getting my final bill reconciliation report and seeing the $5.95 laundry bill had not been reimbursed by NCL as Guest Services said it would. So, we’d have one extra stop on our way to breakfast at Guest Services. It took the gal from Nepal a while to work through whatever computer screens and manager approvals to get the bill comped, but I trust it was done.  What I’m still not clear on is if and when I’ll get reimbursed for the damaged swimsuit.  I’ll give that some time to see what happens as I may still need to file a claim against the reported incident report that was recorded by Guest Services.

We had our final breakfast at The Great Outdoors Café. David & Deb stayed in the shaded and air conditioned Garden Café for their breakfast and we joined after we finished ours.  It was around 8:30am when we began moving towards the disembarkment areas, anticipating we’d be called for our baggage claim queue and sure enough, we did and timed it fairly well.  Our exit off the ship was delayed a bit as the U.S. State Department / U.S. Customs and Border Protection was having NCL use a new facial recognition system to clear folks off the ship with mixed results.  One machine was working just fine, whereas the other – the one we were lined-up behind – was not.  Frankly, I’m not really thrilled to see the government deploying the use of facial recognition technology given how we see it being used elsewhere in the world, i.e., big brother watching and cataloging your every move.

Anyway, after that brief delay we made our way off the ship to the NCL terminal building and then down to baggage claim where Debbie was quickly reunited with her shoes before we left the terminal and made our way to the parking deck and David’s truck.

The drive home was relatively uneventful with one lunch/fuel stop just before crossing into Georgia and then one additional bio-break at a Georgia rest stop.  David & Deb dropped us off just after 5:00pm and, since neither of us had any food at home, we agreed to meet at Ceilo Blue around 6:15pm for dinner.  As always, a great time and a great way to wrap up our 7-day adventure.


Epilogue: As for how I enjoyed the cruise, it was a very different experience for me and I’m still trying to decide if I’m really cut out for cruising.  There were things about it I really enjoyed, such as the visit to Nassau, relaxing at the pool and some of the on-board entertainment.   But there were some things I struggled with, and I suspect some of that had to do with the way this “make-up-cruise” was marketed to fill cabins after Cuba fell off the ports-of-call.  There just seemed to be a disproportionate number of bargain-hunting frequent cruisers who reminded me of discount superstore shoppers or people who frequent fast-food chains and all-you-can-eat buffets.  Instead, I’d expected to see a lot more polite, engaging, lively & energetic adults similar to what we’ve seen at our past two all-inclusive luxury resort trips soaking in the moment and living life to the fullest.

Some of the other misses for me included:

  • The ship seemed to be “tired” even though it had been through a refurbishment merely a year ago, never mind looking it’s age. After all, the Norwegian Sun was designed in the 1990s and built in 2001, well before cruising began to demand larger ships with more amenities and better layouts.  Our room felt damp and had a musty odor throughout our stay and the bathroom door had to be left open as the odors that would otherwise build-up in there were very objectionable. There was also the aforementioned problem with what I suspect was the ship’s 1-year old “scrubber” system installed in an effort to reduce harmful emissions from the inexpensive heavy fuel oil used by NCL. Whatever it was, it was causing a salty, possibly sulphur-rich mist to blow out the engine exhausts and ship’s funnel that was covering the ships white superstructure, vents, rear canopy and just about everything else it fell on with a yellowish-orange film.
  • The food offerings in the standard restaurants and Cafes weren’t anything to write home about.   Yes, we could have upgraded to the premium dining package which would have allowed us to enjoy seven other, higher-end restaurants but, quite frankly, we just aren’t foodies looking for gourmet meals or a coat and tie dinner every night.  But, we do like tastefully seasoned, healthier foods and you really had to work to find them in and amongst the less than healthy food offerings.
  • The entertainment also didn’t do much for us.  Perhaps we should have made a point to go to all of the shows in the Stardust Lounge and that would have given us a different experience. But, the way they scheduled the other, live music and DJs into the clubs where we expected there would be a lively crowd  dancing every night just didn’t play music we or many other guests were all that interested in dancing to. I say this as we routinely found nearly-empty dance floors and very few guests in the Bliss Lounge, Atrium, Spinnaker Lounge and Oasis Poolside venue.  In fact, we found ourselves dancing in the passageway next to the Windjammer Lounge to Jason’s music since the lounge itself didn’t have a dance floor.

Regardless, any time we have with our friends David & Deb is always time well spent and we had a lot of that during our 7-day adventure and throughout the cruise.  The time at the pool was also very enjoyable as we always like to meet and chat with interesting folks, even if we’ll never see them again.  While the ports of call at Key West and Great Stirrup Cay gave us a chance to get off the ship and stretch our legs but not much else — by choice, as there were things to do… just not anything that tripped our trigger —  we both enjoyed our visit to Nassau on New Providence immensely.  And, I really wish the nightlife aboard ship had been more our cup of tea as I really didn’t want to leave our friends alone at the bar each evening but, then again, I didn’t want to sit there drinking late at night either.

So, no… a booze cruise is not my thing.  If we were do another cruise we’d have to do a lot more pre-boarding homework and make sure we had activities planned-out for just about every day and make a conscious effort to be up and out early to make the most of our time on and off the ship.  We’d also need to make sure there was a lot more physical activity during the day unless we knew there’d be a couple hours of dancing in our future every night.  Therefore, in some respects, perhaps I now understand why the barge cruises in Europe that are being offered by Santana Cycles to its tandem cycling clients are so very popular as they do tend to provide just that… well, perhaps not the dancing every night.

So, I’ll remain open minded and we’ll continue to consider future cruising opportunities if we can find the right ship headed to the right places at the right time of year and for a reasonable cost.  A return to the British Virgin Islands for another catamaran adventure is also not out of the question as we both enjoyed that a lot.

Regardless, we are ever-so-grateful that our friends David & Deb invited to join them on what was a really enjoyable, 7-day vacation… inclusive our our time together on the trip down to and time in Daytona, Cape Canaveral and Titusville, during the cruise and the trip home.  Hopefully, my sometimes lack of patience or tolerance didn’t spoil any of their enjoyment of the trip.

Cruising the British Virgin Islands: Part 1

Mark & Debbie’s Travel Journal: An introduction

For those readers who have been following us on one or both of our other blogs, welcome to the “new” blog: our travel journal.  Our “Riding Two-Up” blog’s image collection has nearly filled our library, so it seemed like a good time to further sub-divide our blog content into yet a third volume dedicated to our vacation trips, given they tend to be photo-rich in content.  While this is technically the “first” entry in the new on-line journal, I’ve back-stopped it with three other vacation trips just so it doesn’t feel so lonely out here as there won’t be a lot of entries in this journal. 

Our original WordPress site, The TandemGeek’s Blog, will continue to be used exclusively for tandem cycling related content as a courtesy to our long-time readers from the previous TandemLink website and various forums to which I previously contributed.

Our follow-on WordPress site, Riding Two-Up, will continue to be where I publish my weekly journal and various entries related to our motorcycling adventures, where the vacation / trip report entries will only be linked going forward.

Thank you for your readership and support….   

Mark & Debbie


Our 2019 Catamaran Cruise of the British Virgin Islands: An Overview

So, yeah…  We did the unthinkable and took a 10-day vacation.  I say this as vacations of 5-7 days have been our norm for us, with 4-day extended weekend trips still being smack in the middle of my comfort zone.  Thinking back, I believe I’ve only taken two or three other trips that have been longer than 7 days, including a 14-day tandem cycling trip with Debbie from San Francisco to San Diego California in September 2002 and last year’s 8 day tour of Utah by car with our friends David & Deb.  We also went double-down on this trip in that all 10-days were spent aboard a French-made, Lagoon 42′ cruising catamaran, which meant tight quarters on par with a motorhome but without the ability to leave the coach since we were surrounded by water most of the time.

However, all that said, we had a wonderful time and are truly grateful our friends Ryan & Jeanette extended an invitation to join them for their annual two-week vacation where they celebrate both their anniversary on the 23rd of July and Ryan’s birthday on the 27th of July each year.  It made for a very intimate trip where the only other person we shared the yacht with was our captain, John Shirley.  John runs his own chartering company,  Go Sailing BVI and stepped in to take the captain’s role when the original captain was unable to support our charter. We lucked out with John as he is around our age, a seasoned sailor, a British Virgin Island native and sincerely added invaluable insights to our journey around his islands as he expertly managed the large yacht with minimal assistance from Ryan or I.  But, beyond that, he became a friend and member of our vacation family and that made the journey ever more satisfying, at least from our perspective.

Anyway, the following is a graphic that gives you an overview of where all we sailed each day between the start and end of our journey at the East End of Tortola Island in the British Virgin Islands (BVIs).  You can click on the image to enlarge it so it is readable but, even without doing so you can get a pretty good idea of just how busy we were given we sailed on 9 of the 10 days we were in the BVIs, noting each of the small icons (e.g., triangles or diamonds) indicates where we either snorkeled, hiked or engaged in some type of “special” activity during our trip.

In an effort to make this ‘trip report’ a bit easier to digest, I’ve broken it down into two parts: the balance of this 1st installment, Part 1, covers Monday, 22 of July through Friday, 26 July.   On the following graphic I’ve added a short summary of the highlights for each of those days during our first week in the BVIs where, again, I’ve keyed certain activities to locations on the map so you can begin to have a feel for where we were as you read through the narrative and see photos from those activities.  You’ll also find a few more graphics like these for the individual islands where we made several stops or spent more than one day, e.g., Virgin Gorda and Anegada Islands.  Part 2 will include its own graphic covering Saturday, 27 July through the end of our journey on Thursday, 1 August.

With that, here are my day-by-day recollections from the first week of our adventure.  All told, it’s about 4,300 words with lots of photos.  Here’s hoping you enjoy reading about our travels at least half as much as we did making the journey.  It truly was an experience of a lifetime for us.


Monday: Traveling to Tortola & First Night on The …ish

Miracle of miracles, I actually was able to get several hours of sleep last night.  I was up around 3:00am, but stayed in bed and drifted in and out of sleep until 5:00am when Debbie’s alarm went off.  We were up, packed and on the road by 5:45am, which put us a good 15 minutes ahead of the morning rush hour.

Our GPS route planning software, Waze, led us astray on our way to the Park & Ride Plus airport remote parking lot by sending to a private home in a suburban community 2 miles from the parking lot. Thankfully, Google Maps got us the rest of the way to the parking lot and using self-park instead of they very backed-up valet parking, we were in the shuttle bus and on our way to the airport 5 minutes later.

The airport’s terminal areas were a mess due to construction so we were dropped on the North side of the terminal instead of the South which meant we’d have to hike a half mile across the terminal and down to the Delta Skycaps to get our bags checked in: still far-better than standing in line inside the terminal.  Next up was the TSA screening line which took about 50 minutes to get through: the TSA jobs-program is one of the reasons we don’t travel by air all that much.

Thankfully we arrived 3 hours ahead of our flight which meant our wait in the queuing lines wasn’t even longer.  After making our way to Terminal E by 8:00am we found a TGI Friday’s where Debbie enjoyed a Mimosa and I had a Tequila Sunrise to get our day started.  It was around 8:50am when we made our way to gate 11 and 9:15am when they started boarding what ended up being a very full flight.

It was a 3-hour and 40-minute flight that went fairly quickly. I did a little work on the computer via the aircraft WiFi service, we split a little lunch that we had to pay for ($10.99 for a chicken wrap and fruit) and then I watched the movie Bohemian Rhapsody right up and until we landed in St. Thomas around 1:15pm.  Once we were on the ground in St. Thomas, as first timers… things became interesting.

Note: The following indentured section includes a lot of travel-related detail for our future reference and/or expectation management for any other non-seasoned travelers who might be planning on making a trip to the BVI’s: feel free to skip past, we won’t mind. However, it does truly convey the travel experience as well as some observations on the conditions you’ll see traveling around St. Thomas and Tortola.

  • After deplaning at St. Thomas’ Cyril E. King Airport we collected our two checked duffle bags from baggage claim after about a 15 minute wait and then found a taxi to take us to the The Edward Wilmoth Blyden IV Marine Terminal. It was a short $24 cab ride over to the ferry boat landing. The scenery and road conditions reminded me of Cancun, something akin to what we saw in the non-resort areas around Cancun and Costa Rica and it was really strange having left-hand driven cars driving on the left-hand side of the roads: that somewhat violates logic since you really want the driver’s to be closer to the center of the road not the gutters.
  • After arriving at the ferry terminal, we discovered the 2:30pm ferry trip to Road Town Ferry Terminal in Tortola had been cancelled so there was a very long line for the 4:00pm ferry. Ahead of us were locals in line with bags of groceries, merchants sending cases of strawberries and dog food along with tourist like ourselves and all of their luggage waiting for the ferry.  After patiently waiting and keeping or eye on the clock since we were technical behind schedule for our planned arrival at The Catamaran Company (aka, CatCo) docks on Ber Bay at the East End of Tortola given the cancellation of the 2:30pm ferry, we finally handed-over our passports and credit card and received our $50/pp tickets for the 55-minute trip over to Tortola. It was just 2:15pm once we had our boarding tickets in hand and our two large bags checked for $5/ea (i.e., the total ferry trip cost one-way was $110 for the two of us), we headed upstairs to the Petite Pump Room restaurant and bar where we had a few cocktails and a very tasty Mahi Mahi sandwich to pass the time.  In doing so, we also quickly learned that sitting at a bar for 90-minutes or so, plus food, would easily rack up a $90 bill, something we’d be reminded of throughout our visit.
  • The ferry departed at 4:10pm and after a somewhat choppy cruise, we arrived in Tortola at 5:10pm where we off-boarded “Native Son,” collected our bags and were put into a queue to clear British Virgin Islands’ immigration – about a 20-minute wait.  After immigrations we went into another queue to go through the metal detectors at customs and then followed our bags to another station where we were asked the usual questions and asked to pay a $10/pp Natural Resources Levy before being “released into the wild” in Tortola.
  • After exiting the ferry terminal we told the waiting taxi divers we were looking for AC Taxi — the ground transportation our friend Ryan had arranged to bring us to CatCo docks at East End… about a 15-minute / $25 drive around the island. Once again, the scenery was something more or less on par with what we saw in urban areas around Cancun and Costa Rica, made more so by the still very obvious devastation Hurricane Irma wreaked on the Caribbean: there were dozens of rotting hulls of what once were $100,000 to $750,000 yachts still sunk in harbors, moored or sitting busted-up against the shoreline on our short drive, never mind the damage to structures, landscape and debris: one can only imagine what it looked like immediately after the hurricane back on 6 September 2017.

Our friends, Ryan and Jeanette, had been on Tortola since Friday, enjoying some alone time at a cottage along the somewhat secluded Lambert Bay on the north side of the island and spent today gathering provisions for the first few days of our cruise. As you might expect, food and beverages were expensive.  So, we were pretty much ready to go when we arrived at our 42’ catamaran, the “…ish” registered out of Montgomery, Alabama: I’m guessing these are privately owned yachts operated by CatCo in much the same way the yachts were operated by Calypso Sailing Charters in Southern California back in the 1990’s, a firm where we’d occasionally take a 26’ to 40’ monohull out for a weekend cruise with our friends Paul & Andi.

As for the layout, on the main deck we’d spend most of our time in either the open cockpit, usually sitting around the pedestal table, or in the enclosed main cabin which included a galley kitchen, seating around another pedestal table, a map table & control panel area and a counter with a sunken freezer.  Below decks there were three state rooms, all with double beds.  Ryan & Jeanette had the master stateroom in the starboard hull which included a desk area and more counter space in the bath, while we occupied the aft stateroom on the port side and our captain, John, occupied the forward stateroom.  There is also a small, single bed under the port bow area affectionately referred to as the “coffin” where no one with claustrophobia would ever want to be, but that went unused.  In retrospect, it would have been a good place to store travel bags, etc.

After stowing our bags in our state room (similar to what you see at the right) we changed into our swimsuits, gathered around the table in the cockpit for cocktails and then grilled some fish and veggies on the …ish for dinner.  Sadly, as I was walking around in the main cabin I neglected to see the oddly-placed stairs leading down to the port side staterooms that encroached on the galley counters and top loading freezer I was directed to and took a tumble leaving me with a banged-up left shin, ankle and foot: whoops.  Thankfully, it wasn’t anything other flesh wounds; well, ok… a severe hematoma and some sprains that will likely take several weeks to heal.  After icing down my shin, we called it a night around 9:00pm.


Tuesday: Sailing to Norman Island, Snorkeling & Visiting the Willy-T

I must say, we both slept really well on the yacht.  The sun rose around 5:00am and that’s what woke us up, along with the various pump noises associated with the operation of the yacht. We had a leisurely morning at the marina eating breakfast on the boat waiting for the CatCo office to open so Ryan could execute the various documents associated with the yacht charter and then for our captain, John Shirley, who arrived a bit after 8:00am. John immediately got to work getting his gear stowed, checking out the …ish, and then spending time with us so he could understand what all we wanted to see and do and on any specific days so he could develop a plan for the next 9 days. Even though my left calf and foot were quite swollen, I had good circulation and was very mobile so just assume it was a non-issue for the trip and that’s all I’ll say going forward.

After waiting for the divers to finish cleaning the hulls, we motored out of the marina and then John popped the jib for the sail over to Norman Island.

It was a beautiful day with a stiff breeze so the jib was all the …ish needed to make good time to Treasure Point with its caves where Debbie was able to make her first-ever snorkeling dive. She did great and really enjoyed it, so good we made the decision to acquire and bring along the snorkeling gear and, in particular, the full-face mask for Debbie.

After snorkeling John took us into the mooring area in Bight Bay to anchor the …ish and from there we took the dinghy over to The Willy T for cocktails.  We did the surfboard shot thing, Ryan & Jeanette jumped off the 2nd story of the Willy T a couple times and both Jeanette and Debbie received their Willy T tattoos from our barkeeper, Mark. We got to visit with some of the other patrons and got a couple of the other gals to get their faux tattoos; just really fun people to be sure.

From there we stopped by the …ish to see if John needed anything or wanted to go with us to Pirate Bight restaurant for a few more cocktails and nachos. Once again, we met some folks at Pirates Bight and had a really nice time before heading back to the …ish where Jeanette made some zucchini pasta with red sauce for dinner.  After that it was just relaxing and chatting before everyone retired to bed relatively early by ‘at home’ standards.


Wednesday: Sailing to Jost Van Dyke, Snorkeling & Bar Crawling in the Caribbean

After yet another great night sleeping on the …ish we were up with the sun and made our way to the main cabin around 6:30am where Ryan was doing his morning readings while Jeanette did likewise down in their stateroom.  It was around 7:30am when we had our orange-juice with a kick and 8:00am when I had a BLT for breakfast: I could live on those!

John pulled up the anchor and motored us out of Bight Bay to the rock formation known as the Indians next to Pelican Island where he caught a mooring ball so we could snorkel around the Indians. The Indians are a small archipelago of islets so named because from a distance they were thought to resemble a Native American’s head dress. Once again, just some amazing coral and sea life rested just under the surface of the water.  We snorkeled around the Indians in some heavy chop and against a stronger current than we encountered at Treasure Point yesterday, but it was still a great time and Debbie is now snorkeling like a pro.

From the Indians John set the sails and we made our way over to Jost Van Dyke and White Bay where we dropped anchor with a goal of being able to wade ashore where we’d visit the Soggy Dollar bar and the other bars along the beach for a while.  It’s this tradition of wading in with cash in your pocket that gives “The Soggy Dollar” its name.

We actually spent the most time at Ivan’s Bar a bit further east along White Bay.  John was kind enough to collect Debbie with the dinghy and take her around to Ivan’s Stress Free Bar while Ryan & Jeanette make the short hike over the hill.  It was sort of humorous in that as I was swimming out to the …ish with the intent of getting the dinghy to collect Debbie, John had gotten in the dinghy and headed to the beach not even realizing I was swimming out to the catamaran.  He came back by the …ish and collected me, then dropped us at Ivan’s.  As if to prove how small the world is, the barkeeper at Ivan’s, Darlene, has a sister who watches after her son in Marietta, Georgia, and lives within a mile of Ryan & Jeanette.  Her kids have all gone to the same elementary, middle and high schools as all of our collective kids.  As I said, we had a good time there, left our names and “ANTDOLES” on the bar and a chuck of wood from the grand old Sea Grape tree that sat on beach until Hurricane Irma knocked it down.  As we walked along the beach back towards the …ish John came and collected us: he’s the best!

John motored the ..ish around the point to Great Harbor where we dropped anchor for the night and spent the better part of the afternoon relaxing, dancing and just have a grand old time on the …ish before taking the dinghy over to Foxy’s for a cocktail.

We returned to the …ish and got cleaned up for dinner, motored back to the pier and headed to Corsairs Beach Bar and Restaurant for our 7:30pm dinner reservation.  Pizza Dave was the biker/barkeeper and made for good conversation.  The rest of the staff… not so much. They didn’t seem to be all that interested in doing much of anything aside from sitting in the back of the restaurant and staring into their phones.  However, our conch fritters, the blackened sea bass and the pizza all four of us shared were all very good, pricey, but good.  We also met a group from Auburn, Alabama, and had a nice time chatting with them.  From Corsairs we walked down to Foxy’s where we’d heard they had a good DJ.  We probably stayed there for 45 minutes of dancing but after playing a few good songs the DJ just started playing this Caribbean “thumpty-thump” music one after another and that sort of killed it for us.  So, we decided we’d just return to the …ish and pick up where we left off with our own little dance party.

When we returned to our dinghy, we found it had been crowded out at the pier by a boat and 6 other dinghy’s to the point where it was now sitting partially under the pier. Moreover, somehow the drain plug had been pulled and there was a foot of water sitting in the dinghy: really!?  We removed our shoes, I hiked up my pants and we made our way back over to the …ish where after getting everyone off the dinghy I bailed out the water.  That was something of a coup de grace for the night time party mood, so Ryan & Jeanette and Debbie & I paired off and had some quiet time into the evening.  Debbie and I finished off our day sitting on top of the …ish and looking at the stars for a while before heading down to our stateroom for the night.


Thursday: Sailing to Cane Garden Bay with stops for a hike to the Bubbly Pools & snorkeling

I was up around 6:00am and headed up to the main cabin so as not to disturb Debbie and began working on the blog update, checking mail, etc.  Around 6:30am the skies opened up with a very short but very hard rain that gave everything a wash-down and sent me to a drier end of the chart table.  But, as I said, it was gone as quickly as it had come.

It was around 7:00am when Debbie came up to the main cabin to get her tea, followed shortly thereafter by Ryan and then John who immediately got busy stowing the dinghy, pulling up anchor and then motoring the …ish over to the North Latitude Marina where we picked up some ice and 50 gallons of water for the holding tanks which suggests we can go for about 2 days on the 80 gallons of water held by the …ish.

John motored the …ish  to Little Jost Van Dyke Island and Long Bay at the East End of Jost Van Dyke.  Once at the East End we took the dinghy to the dock at Foxy’s Taboo where we hiked out to a natural sea-formed Jacuzzi, aka “the Bubbly Pool,” a rock formation that at one time had foamy surf blasting between the rocks to create a “bubbly” surge of water every few minutes and a lovely little beach surrounded by a lush wetlands area and lake.  It suffices to say, Hurricane Irma made a mess of things and the Bubbly Pool wasn’t bubbling all that much, especially at this time of year, the beach is gone and the surrounding area was stripped of its tall foliage and is now a tangle of dead tree trunks and branches.  That said, nature is beginning to bounce back so we saw all kinds of interesting new growth, hermit crabs, cranes, goats, cactus and the like along our walk to and from the Bubbly Pool.

 

We stopped in at Foxy’s Taboo after our walk for some beverages and to sit-out several passing rain showers.  We met a nice couple and their 8-year old from the Chicago Area and had a fun time chatting with them before we headed back to our respective lodging locations: they were on shore back in Grand Harbor.  After a little lunch on the …ish we all hit the water with our snorkeling gear to explore the coral along Little Jost Van Dyke.  Ryan went out ahead of us and made it as far as the B-Bar but, sadly, had no soggy dollars in his pocket for a cocktail: probably a good thing when you’re snorkeling.  Jeanette, Debbie and I followed shortly behind and I’d guess we were all in the water snorkeling for a good hour or so.  The undersea scenery wasn’t nearly as captivating as what we saw at the Indians, but it was good to spend some time in the water and Debbie continues to enjoy and excel at snorkeling.

From Long Bay, John motored the …ish the short distance to the Sandy Spit where he dropped anchor so those of us who were so inclined could swim over the little patch of white sand. Ryan and Jeanette made the journey while Debbie and I stayed on the …ish and relaxed a bit on the trampoline.  After pulling up the anchor, John popped the sails and we had what I’d characterize as an invigorating sail over to Cane Garden Bay at Tortola.  In fact, when we started out Debbie had decided to relax on the trampoline for the sail and within 5 minutes looked like a drowned rat given all of the spray and splash coming off the hulls from the chop and wind.  I rescued her and she spent the rest of the journey in the comfort of the well-sheltered cockpit while Ryan & Jeanette took naps and I kept John company at the helm.

When we arrived at Cane Garden Bay it was apparent “Christmas in July” – a Puerto Rican celebration in the BVI’s – was still underway with no less than 36 Puerto Rico-flagged boats of various size lined-up and barging along the first row of mooring balls along the beach.  Almost as soon as John had us anchored he headed ashore to make dinner reservations for the four of us plus he and his wife, Sally, at Quito’s for 7:30pm.  We decided the plan for the evening would be to skip a pre-trip to town for cocktails and enjoy those on the …ish, then head to town around 5:00pm with umbrellas at the ready to spend a little time at Pusser’s / Myett’s before making our way to Quito’s.  It was around 7:00pm when John & Sally arrived and, as you’d expect, John knows everyone.  We had a wonderful time with them at dinner and it really made for a really special evening on a really special trip.  The food was very good, but I somewhat regretted going for the healthy blackened tuna instead of the amazing looking “Wicked Tuna” John ordered.  After dinner we all headed back to the …ish around 9:15pm and then John headed home for the night with Sally around 9:30pm, at our insistence.  We’d be fine by ourselves for a night on the boat.  Ryan & Jeanette called it a night a little before 10:00pm while we decided to enjoy the sights and sounds of Cane Garden Bay from the roof of the …ish until calling it a night around 11:00pm.


Friday: Sailing to Marina Cay with snorkeling at Guana Island along the way

My Friday began with a “bump in the night” at 2:02am that woke me up and sent me topside as I had no idea what could have caused it and was afraid another boat had lost its mooring and bumped up against us.  Thankfully, there wasn’t anything obvious like another boat anywhere close to us and as I made my way around the …ish I saw the right (starboard) front guardrail where we’d been hanging towels and what not was now laying on the trampoline.  After getting all of the clothing unpinned from the guardrails I could see the turnbuckle on the guardrail had become unscrewed, allowing the wind to blow the guardrail with towels attached into the top of the hull and the short but heavy end of the guardrail with the turnbuckle still attached to fall against the hull.  It suffices to say, I was relieved I was able to find the source.  I brought all of the clothing back to the main cabin, folded it and then headed back to bed.

It was 6:00am when I finally got out of bed and headed up top to post some photos to Facebook and begin updating my journal on what was a cloudy, rainy morning.  However, by 8:00am the sun was now high enough to start burning off the cloud cover and everyone else had emerged from their staterooms. John arrived a short time later and Ryan and I headed back to the dock on the dinghy to pick up a few provisions from the local market before we headed off along the north coast of Tortola with two stops today: White Bay at Guana Island for snorkeling, then on to Market Cay & Scrub Island where we’ll spend the night.

The sail north along the coast was once again a bit invigorating with a strong 14mph wind and moderate swells.  John kept the …ish close to the coast to give us the best views of the island, moving through several of the bays along the way.  The coast was dotted with private homes on the steep cliffs of all shapes and sizes, up to and including AirB&B type homes with guest houses and cottages as well as palatial estates with infinity pools including one with it’s on helipad and helicopter sitting there under a custom fitted cover: first time I’ve ever seen that.  John noted that during the winter Tortola’s north coast offers up some top surfing conditions which provide a vastly different-looking sea scape to what we were enjoying today, where waves crash 100’ up in the air as they slam into the rocky cliffs overlooking some of the secluded bays.  There are even a couple of 18th century garrison ruins along the coast, one the locals knew of and another that emerged from the overgrowth after Hurricane Irma washed it away.

After our hour-long sail we crossed over the narrow channel between Tortola’s Greenland area and Lambert Bay to Monkey Point at White Bay on Guana Island where we grabbed a mooring ball and spent the next couple of hours snorkeling around the coral-lined bay.  John had said this is one of the dives where you’d want to have your cameras and he was spot-on: there were thousands of small fish swimming in schools with smaller schools of larger fish shooting about.  They didn’t seem bothered by our presence in the least.  Once again, Debbie did great in the water, albeit still using her water noodle for added flotation.   Ryan & Jeanette are definitely more adventurous than we are and made their way to the small sandy “beach” near Monkey Point where they rested on the rocks and sand for a bit before making their way back to the …ish.  With all back aboard, John motored us the short distance to an anchorage just off Market Cay where we’d spend the night.

 

Once anchored I made hot wings for lunch while we considered our options for the rest of the afternoon and evening.  Something Debbie, Jeanette and even Ryan had thought about doing was heading to the Scrub Island Marriott Resort and Spa for a little spa time… which had been part of the original plan provided to John and then we’d be making dinner on the boat.

Well, after lunch and relaxing a bit Ryan and Jeanette were both feeling the lingering effects of a long day in the water, time in the sun and a filling lunch and gave in to afternoon naps.  Debbie and I spent a little time up on top of the …ish getting some sun (like we needed more sun) and then relaxing a bit in the main cabin while our friends napped.  The afternoon spa visit fell off the agenda and then dinner on the …ish became dinner at Donovan’s Reef at the Scrub Island Resort.  It was around 6:55pm when we boarded the dinghy and made our way the half mile or so to the Scrub Island marina’s dinghy pier across a fairly choppy channel where West End and West South Bay’s intersect at Marina Cay.  We found Donovan’s without too much trouble and had a very nice but casual dinner with comfort food where Debbie and I split a burger and Ryan & Jeanette split some ribs.  The dinghy trip back to the …ish in the dark of night at 9:00pm with only a small flashlight to let other boats know where we were was a bit sporty.  However, we successfully made it to the …ish with only one close call when a mooring ball suddenly appeared in our path but that was it.  Ryan and Jeanette retired shortly after we were back aboard while Debbie and I stayed up and chatted a bit, then Debbie retired while I did a little catch-up on mail, etc. and then headed down around 10:30pm.

Go to Part 2

Cruising the British Virgin Islands: Part 2

North shore of Anegada with dead sargassum washed up on the shore and yet another thunderstorm approaching from the east.

Welcome to Part 2 of our Cruising the British Virgin Islands (BVIs) vacation journal, which picks up where Part 1 left off: Saturday 27 July through Thursday, 1 August.  Sadly, we didn’t get to do as much snorkeling this week as overcast skies and storms moved in on Sunday night and stayed with us until late into our last night in the BVIs.  The lack of sunlight coupled with the sargassum problem along the north side of Anegada meant there just wasn’t much to see even if we did brave the choppy waters and rain.  In fact, we ran into a couple folks who had just been snorkeling at Cow Wreck Point along Anegada’s north coast on Tuesday and all they’d observed was dead coral and sea grass.  So, yeah… the “adventure” element suffered a setback during this 2nd week which gave us a bit more down time that we filled with more sedate activities such as playing Jenga at the Anegada Beach Club on Tuesday and Gin Rummy at Pussers on Marina Cay on Wednesday.

Regardless, it was still a great time and, as with Part 1, here’s an graphic that provides an overview of where we went each day and what we did.


Saturday: Sailing to Virgin Gorda, Visiting the Baths  & celebrating Ryan’s birthday at Coco Maya

As for the night on the boat, this was probably the most boat-like night we’ve experienced.  We were on a mooring ball in what was essentially a channel instead of a sheltered bay which had the …ish pitching and rolling throughout the night with the associated lapping water against the hulls and creaking rigging sounds generated by a sailing yacht.

It was around 4:00am when I first got out of bed for a bio break and to adjust the air conditioning a bit.  However, 30 minutes later the diesel-powered generator on the …ish shut itself down after the inlet valve that circulates water to cool the generator became clogged with dead sea weed (sargassum) and other debris, a nuisance that has been plaguing all of the Caribbean, Gulf of Mexico, Atlantic and even African coasts for several years.  We encountered it in Cancun last year during our July visit and the dead and rotting sargassum with it’s sulfur odor had essentially covered all of the formerly white sandy beaches and would re-collect as fast as workers tried to haul it off.  For some reason Marina Cay seemed to be a magnet for the sargassum while we were there which almost guaranteed the inlet filters would be clogged, and they were.

It was around 5:30am or so when John began making his rounds on the …ish taking care of all the things that needed to be taken care of each morning, in addition to the generator/sargassum issue.  I came up at 6:00am and found Ryan was also up and busy with his morning reading and wished him a happy birthday before picking up my laptop and headed out to cockpit to begin my journal updates, etc.   It was around 6:30am when both Debbie and Jeanette came up and Jeanette immediately dove into making a breakfast casserole for Ryan’s birthday. The casserole was delicious and John joined us for breakfast.

I should note, it can be a double-edge sword with the contract captain since you collectively pay an extra $50/day in per diem for his meal expenses per the contract agreement, above and beyond his per day captain rate.  So, on one hand you want to be inclusive but, on the other, well…. yeah.  However, we noticed John paid for the water and ice on several mornings and declined to be reimbursed, so he was clearly mindful and appreciative of our hospitality: again, a great captain.

After breakfast we motored over to the Marina Cay pier where we took on 60 gallons of water and a couple more bags of ice at 8:00am when they opened.   From there we motor-sailed over to the Baths at Spring Bay on Virgin Gorda where we grabbed a mooring ball and, from there, John took us to the edge of the swimming area in the dinghy where we hit the water and swam the rest of the way in to the beach. We carried our shoes in zip-lock bags I essentially “pressurized” and it worked quite well.  Once on the beach we had a pre-hike beverage at the Poor Man’s Bar and then went exploring.

We did some initial investigating at the world famous Baths of Virgin Gorda: formed over millions of years, the Batholiths or “Baths” are a series of interconnecting boulder formations creating unique grottos with pools of crystal clear water.  We found them to be filled with a tourist group so we decided to reverse course, hike up the trail to the National Park Station and adjacent restaurant where we found the trail heads for hikes to Stoney Bay, Devil’s Bay and the Baths.  We took the long route to Stoney Bay and were treated to some beautiful views of the small islands — Blinders and Fallen Jerusalem — where moderate waves were breaking against the rocky coast lines.  We found the same thing once we arrived at Stoney Bay – aptly named – and then made our way across some coral fields to the path that took us to Devil’s Bay, a far less dramatic scene but a lovely place to enjoy the beach and water.  From there we headed into the grottos and baths: amazing.

   

It was a little before noon when we swam back out to John and the dinghy for the ride back to the …ish where we cleaned up a bit as John motored the yacht 30 minutes north to Spanish Town at St Thomas Bay where he dropped anchor just outside Spanish Town Marina so he could take the dinghy into the marina and firm up our slip mooring reservation for the evening.  We stayed at anchor for lunch, hot dogs cooked on the grill and boy did that hit the spot: more comfort food!  Once again, John joined us for the meal.  By the time we had everything cleaned up John had the anchor up and we motored into the marina where John did an amazing job of negotiating the …ish into the tight quarters surrounding the slip: definitely not something for amateurs.

Our priority for the day was to be at Coco Maya on the beach for dinner at 7:00pm.  So, between the time we were in the slip at 2:30pm and 6:40pm when the cab would pick us up for the short drive through the not-so-nice areas that now surround the marina, the only must do’s were for the girls to get their hair washed and showered while Ryan and I picked up some groceries.  Although, I should note I took a 1.5 mile walk around the “neighborhood” looking for a pharmacy that was no longer in business, a walk that confirmed Spanish Town was very economically depressed. The taxi ride to the Bank’s Wholesale Store, aka, the grocery store, confirmed my initial assessment about the economic conditions: very much on par with the urban areas around Cancun and in Costa Rica.  I can only hope the price they charge locals for provisions are heavily discounted from the marked retail prices they charge folks just “passing through” like us based on what we paid for our groceries.

Once we were back at the ..ish in the Spanish Town Marina we spent the afternoon relaxing, having a few cocktails and towards dinner time Jeanette and Debbie grabbed showers, washed their hair and got “fluffed-up” for Ryan’s birthday dinner at Coco Maya.  We met our cab driver, Patsy, promptly at 6:40pm and made the short drive over to Coco Maya, a 10-minute walk but not along a road you’d want to walk.  However, I must say, Coco Maya was an oasis of luxury dining at Spanish Town.  It bills itself as a Caribbean /Asian Fusion restaurant that serves its meals tapas style.  The view from our patio dining table out over St. Thomas Bay was spectacular and our 7:00pm reservation coincided with an amazing sunset.

Our server was Anastasia and so long as we reminded ourselves, we were on island time and at a very busy and popular restaurant catering to high-end guests, the pace of the evening remained perfect.  Ryan, Jeanette and Debbie all experimented with custom cocktails, e.g., a Jalapeño Margarita, a Reverse Cosmopolitan and a Smokey Hibiscus: the Smokey Hibiscus had to go back but the other two concoctions were very good, unusual but very good.  I stuck with silver tequila.  As for the meals, we began with Edamame, followed that up with Jerk Chicken Won Tons, Flank Steak, Spicy Tuna Rolls and finished with a Cobb Salad and it was all exceptional!  Jeanette was able to arrange an equally amazing five-chocolate desert with flaming candle to top off Ryan’s birthday dinner and, if that wasn’t enough, they had an exceptional DJ playing our kind of music, music you could dance to. If only they’d had a dance floor; however, we did our best at dancing in the sand and had a grand time.  The Coco Maya’s hostess was kind enough to call Pasty to come and collect us at what was probably 9:00pm.  It was a short and safe drive back to the marina where we all called it an early night on the …ish.

Just an Observation:  As mentioned earlier, our cruise around the British Virgin Islands coincided with “Christmas in July” an annual celebration by folks from Puerto Rico who either motor/sail here on their own vessels or who charter yachts and other types of vessels in the BVI.  Quite frankly, while the media seems to focus only on the worst aspects of Puerto Rico’s economy, the Hurricane Irma devastation and more recently political corruption, the hundreds of folks we saw on their luxury yachts, deep sea fishing boats  and charters would have easily blended right in with the Miami South Beach crowds; they appear to be doing quite well. I wasn’t surprised by this, just reminded perception management is an interesting thing.


Sunday: Sailing to the North End of Virgin Gorda & Hiking Gorda Peak.

As expected, being moored in the protected harbor gave us a very calm night with minimal boat motion which translated into a good night’s rest.  We heard a heavy shower during the night but there was little evidence by the time we came up top at 6:30am. We motored out of St. Thomas Bay and then John popped the sails for our cruise north to Leverick Bay before 7:30am.  Jeanette was busy making shish kabobs for tonight’s dinner on the …ish as we sailed around the southeast tip of Virgin Gorda and we both had a bit of a “yikes” moment when the wind suddenly came around the end of the island and gave the …ish a severe side strike, sending a lot of things tumbling including a nearly full bottle of Cointreau. We saved about 20% of it after the bottle fell into the sink and broke.   But, that was about it for excitement on the morning cruise to the northeast end of Virgin Gorda.

After grabbing a mooring ball, John gave a lift to the dock where we began what would be about a half-day land excursion.  The first order of business was securing a rental car we’d use to make the short, 15-minute drive up to Gorda Peak National Forest for 90-minute, 3-mile hike up to the lookout tower location. Gorda peak is the highest point on Virgin Gorda at 1,370 ft.  The 240-acre park was donated by Laurance Rockefeller in 1974 and it is one of the last remaining examples of Caribbean dry forest in the region, which makes it a high priority for conservation internationally. We opted to rent a car since it allowed us to easily make our way up to the park, spend as much time on our hike, stop at Hog Heaven (an homage to BBQ, not Harley’s) for lunch before heading back into the marina for less than it would have cost in cab rides, about $75.

It was about a 15-minute drive, all up hill on very narrow roads in poor to fair condition.  We entered the park at the lower trailhead which gave us about a 50-minute hike up to the location of the observation tower.  I say location as the very tall wooden tower that gave you panoramic views of the entire British Virgin Islands was knocked down by Hurricane Irma and has not yet been cleared or rebuilt.  Sadly, that meant there really wasn’t much to see since we had no opportunity to stick our heads up above tree level.  Regardless, it was good to get in the hike up to the Gorda Peak. For the hike back down, we headed to the upper trail access point, about a 30-minute hike all downhill, a steep downhill.  From the trailhead we walked another mile or two back to the car at the lower entry point.  Thankfully, it was a well-shaded trail, we had a nice breeze and some cloud cover so it never got overly hot as feared by our captain, John.

From the trail head we went in search of a small, mountain side restaurant called Hog Heaven, known for its very good BBQ’d meals all cooked on an outdoor gas grill that’s not all much different from the ones we all use.  We arrived early enough to beat a tour bus and enjoyed a delicious lunch: Debbe and I had the chopped pork, Jeanette had the pork ribs and Ryan went with a burger.

At Hog Heaven looking at Leverick Bay where the …ish is moored

After lunch we returned to the Marina, dropped off the rental car and at 2:00pm Jeanette and Debbie headed off to their spa appointments while Ryan and I returned to the …ish and relaxed. Sadly, John let us know there’s a potential weather system moving into the northern Caribbean that could bring us wet weather over night, all day tomorrow and on Tuesday morning with lingering scattered showers through the end of our cruise on Wednesday.  Not the forecast we’d been hoping for, to be sure.

Of note was that we were able to get the WiFi router on the …ish reset, noting we’d lost our Internet connection early yesterday.  So, good to be back on-line, eh?  I used that outage as the motivation to go ahead and subscribe to the BVI’s roaming cell service for $10 a day with unlimited phone, text and data. Yup, yet another 1st world issue in a 3rd world location.

We had a very enjoyable and relaxing afternoon back on the …ish and the girls returned from their spa visit around 4:15pm.  The plan for the evening was to stay on board the ish and grill the shish kabobs Jeanette had made earlier in the day, which is what we did.  It was a lovely dinner with wilted spinach and rice as our sides and John joined us as well.  Our companions headed down to their stateroom around 8:00pm, so Debbie and I relaxed a bit in the main cabin and then finished out our night watching “Triple X” a really, really bad move – perhaps the worst I’ve ever seen – via Netflix. The rain began around 10:00pm and we could tell the sea was beginning to churn a bit.


Monday: The Sail Over to Anegada and Dinner on the …ish

It had been a bumpy night as the expected weather came in and winds picked-up suggesting we’d have an invigorating sail over to Anegada today.  It was around 10:00am when we pulled away from the water dock at Leverick Bay after taking on ice and another 40 gallons of water, so our daily water consumption had steadily increased since the start of our trip.

John raised the sails as we headed west along the coast of Virgin Gorda, taking advantage of the sheltered bays with their flat water and lighter winds.  As we headed across the Necker Island Passage John put me on the helm so he could trim the sails.  John had to tutor me a bit on the use of the navigation instruments on the …ish and, ultimately decided I’d do best to just “sail the boat” by feel and use the compass to navigate our way to Pomato Point at the harbor entrance on Anegada.  It all went rather well for the next 90 minutes at the helm, as best as I can tell, other than the two times swells breached the windward hull, sending a surge of salt water across the main cabin’s roof and bridge and soaking John and me in the process.  The girls and Ryan were unfazed down in the main cabin. I was truly in heaven being back on the helm of a sailing yacht but, clearly, was just the helmsman since John was setting sails and telling me where to go, i.e., he was the captain and I was ballast!  But, I think I must have been doing a pretty good job since he headed down to the main cabin to relax and enjoy the sail over to Anegada while checking on me and our heading once and a while. My biggest challenge became “finding” a visual landmark in the hazy and rainy horizon on Anegada so I could shift from pure compass navigation to a landmark.  I had it in my mind Anegada was similar to the rest of the Virgin Islands, with at least a few mountains but, no… it was dead flat with the highest elevation being 28’ above sea level.  So, when I finally accepted the fact the “scrub” I was seeing was, in fact, land… John confirmed that he’d seen it 5 minutes before I called it out.  To be fair, I didn’t want to be wrong.

Regardless, with a visual target the sail into Pameto Point where John dropped the sails and then we dropped anchor so John could ferry us to the beach on the dinghy. From there we walked the mile or so to the various club and bars just before Setting Point where we did some exploring.

While we were initially discouraged by what we found, we eventually arrived at Potters Restaurant and Bar and met Sam and he became the savior of our 1st visit to Anegada.  Jeanette was looking for either Absinthe or Jägermeister and had been striking out throughout our visit.  Sam didn’t have it either, but he sent someone off to find it and 10 minutes later he and Jeanette were doing shots of Jäger while the rest of us had less toxic cocktails.  When we discovered they didn’t have any snacks, I walked to the nearby grocery store & liquor store where Potters like sourced the Jäger and picked up an $8.00 bag of Tostito’s chips.  Sam had no problem with me bringing chips to our little party at Porters.

We retired to the …ish around 4:00pm where we spent the afternoon relaxing a bit before Jeanette cooked up the rest of the shrimp we’d not finished the night before scampi style that we had with salad, left-over zucchini salad, left-over spinach salad and left-over rice from the past few on-board dinners.  Debbie cleared the table and cleaned up while the rest of us – Ryan, Jeanette, John and me – had a wonderful conversation covering a wide range of topics.  It was a grand night back on the …ish.  Everyone retired before 8:30pm and Debbie and I finished out the night down in our stateroom streaming another movie – Murder Mystery – via Netflix.


Tuesday: Exploring Anegada and Lobster on the Beach

We had another very rough night with storms moving across the northern Caribbean that had the …ish constantly pitching and yawing in the water with some accompanying banging and knocking from the rigging.  I don’t think Debbie slept much and I didn’t sleep all that well either since she was restless and there wasn’t really anywhere for me to go other than the main cabin and I’ve tried to avoid doing that: its habit forming.  We were probably both wide awake by 6:00am but did our best to try and rest until 7:30am before heading up to the main cabin for her tea, my Diet Pepsi and a little light breakfast to start our day.  The weather was not exactly all that inviting as it was overcast with thundershowers moving through the area all day and we did our best to stay under cover when the skies opened up now and again.

A panoramic view of Anegada’s north coast from Cow Wreck Beach gives you an idea of what our morning and early afternoon looked like.

We’d thought we had a dry spot and had John take us ashore on the dinghy at 9:00am when the car rental offices opened but, sure enough, the skies unloaded as we were on our way.  We didn’t get soaked but we also didn’t stay dry.  Anyway, the gentle lady who owned the Anegada Beach Hotel and just about every other business around it took care of getting us in a rental car for $85 and from there we headed out to explore the island.  Our drive took us out to the west where we stopped at the Flamingo Observation Platform and saw literally hundreds of giant Flamingo’s huddled on the backside of the salt ponds near the original settlement area.  Our observation stop was cut short by gnats that suddenly descended on us.  From there we headed towards Lublolly Bay and its restaurants and bars.  We drove by Flash of Beauty which was back in business but looking a bit sparse.  However, Bamboo Bay Restaurant and Bay was in very good shape, meticulously maintained and getting ready to open for business when we arrived just before 11:00am. However, their beaches were inundated with the dreaded sargassum and that was just a buzz kill with its Sulphur aroma and the toll it takes on underwater life.  Well, and a strong storm was rolling through so we took shelter in our rental car and headed further north until we reached Anedaga Beach Club; wow!  Talk about a diamond in the rough, we could easily come and spend a few days here.  The folks at the bar were great, I scored a couple of decals as mementos at the gift shop and after running a bit further north along the coast to the Cow Wreck Resort – which was a ghost town – we returned to Anegada Beach Club to have lunch.  There was some Jenga blocks games, cocktails and socializing along with our delicious Bacon Lettuce Lobster and Tomato sandwich.  But, nice food and drink at a nice place in the BVI’s doesn’t come cheap: lunch was $183 for the four of us but, as always, $100 a lot of that was cocktails. As an interesting aside, imagine our surprise when John and two of the other captains also came to the Anedaga Beach Club for lunch: guess we picked the right place!

After lunch we returned to Setting Point to figure out which of the four restaurants that serve lobster for dinner we’d patronize.  The Wonky Dog didn’t score high for interest in our business, the Lobster Trap suggested they were nearly booked-up with 60 guests, Potters wasn’t really “on the beach” as they served their guests on a covered patio adjacent to the dock so Anegada Reef Hotel won-out for a variety of reasons, including being most-interested in our business, being on the beach and having only about 3 other tables reserved, i.e., not being overwhelmed.

After heading back to the …ish to clean up, John took back us to the dock on the dinghy for cocktails and dinner and the dinner did not disappoint.  We ended up sitting next to the same family we met at the Anegada Beach Club playing Jenga and had a wonderful conversation with them.  They were down from Connecticut with their three children, ages 11 – 19: all good kids.  The meal itself was wonderful and the setting perfect.  That was about it for our evening: John picked us up around 9:00pm and Debbie and I finished out the night watching another silly movie just so we didn’t go to sleep too early.


Wednesday: A Stop at Marina Cay On a Rough Sail to Cooper Island

Sleeping on the …ish has been hit or miss. Some nights have given us a solid night’s rest, whereas others.. not so much.  And, when you’re in tight quarters on even a cruising yacht finding a place to go in the middle of the night when you can’t sleep isn’t the easiest, especially when it’s been raining in the evening over the past few nights. Such was the case today.  I found myself up at 2:00am, slept for a short while and then tossed and turned from 3:00am until I finally got up at 6:00am.  Debbie actually slept pretty well.  However, given all the noise and movement associated with John casting off from Anegada and raising sails at 6:30am so we could be at Marine Cay by 8:30am, she and Jeanette both gave up on getting an extra hour of rest and came up to the main cabin at 6:30am.  The reason for our early departure was to allow our captain, John, to catch the water taxi back to Tortola for a Board Meeting; yes, we were more than OK with that.  Again, John has been a treasure on this trip and his background, experience and standing in the BVI community has definitely made a few things a lot easier for us.

Anyway, after arriving at Marine Cay we relaxed a bit on the …ish before heading over to the Pussers Bar & Grill on Marine Cay where we had a light lunch and played cards from 10:30am until 12:30pm when John returned from his board meeting.  Just before he arrived the skies began to open up so I’d just make a quick trip to the …ish on the dinghy to close all of the hatches and windows before the hard rain began to fall.

We stayed at Pussers for a while longer waiting for the rain to let up before returning to the …ish for yet another invigorating sailing leg as we were still dealing with angry wet weather as we sailed to Manchioneel Bay at Cooper Island where we grabbed a mooring ball for the night.  We had our final dinner at the Cooper Island Beach Club with John and were able to get back to the …ish before the skies began to unload again at 7:45pm; perfect timing.

As has become the norm over the last half of the trip, everyone pretty much retired to their staterooms around 8:00pm.  Debbie and I stayed in the main cabin for a short while before following suit and finished up the night watching another movie on Netflix so as not to go to sleep too early.  We would have much preferred spending a few hours up on top of the roof of the main cabin star gazing but the weather just didn’t want to cooperate.


Thursday: Returning the …ish and heading home

It was another restless night for me and I finally headed to the main cabin at 5:00am so I could do some banking, etc. and catch up on the blog.  Ryan came up briefly around 6:00am, followed by Jeanette and then John shortly thereafter.  I decided to let Debbie have the stateroom to herself, noting I’d already done a lot of pre-packing yesterday while we were moored at Marina Cay.  The lynchpin in our packing was Debbie’s overnight bag since that was the 1st thing that needed to go into our large blue dive bag before the two large beach towels we didn’t need to bring (ugg) and our clothing.  The smaller black duffle bag is also an easy pack as it swallows our snorkeling gear, shoes, the GoPro camera gear and footwear, all of which I pre-bagged in the 2.5 gal Ziplock bags yesterday. So, again, it won’t take me long to get us packed during our sail to Road Town.

John dropped the mooring ball and unfurled the jib for the short sail from Cooper Island back to Tortola around 7:45am, noting the fueling station he wanted to use where diesel was only $3.50 a gallon vs. $5.00 a gallon at most others did not open until 8:00am.  After getting underway we all finished up our packing and had our bags up in the cockpit so we could police up the linens and towels and have those ready for check-in back at CatCo; our goal was to have a fast check-in so we could catch a taxi to the ferry terminal and catch the 10:00am ferry to give us plenty of time for our 3:50pm Delta Flight check-in process: the latter proved to be fortuitous.

Much to our amazement, John’s thrifty use of the generator and engines throughout our 10-day sail resulted in our needing only 10 gallons of diesel for the fuel cell used to run the generator and 60-gallons of diesel for the fuel cell that power the two engines on the …ish.  Seriously, that’s pretty amazing considering how much water we covered during the trip and speaks volumes about how much time we were under sail vs. motoring around the British Virgin Islands.

Once we were back at CatCo John finished up the paperwork for the return of the …ish while we off-loaded our bags for pick-up by AC Taxi at about 9:15am.  We thanked John and gave him a card with our gratuity for all of his companionship, generous sharing of knowledge about the BVI and, of course, his world-class skills and tutoring as a captain.  Seriously, when I think back on our trip to the BVI’s my personal highlight was my time with Debbie and our friends, and I now count John as one of our friends.  He was a gentleman of the highest order who always enhanced our experiences: he was the perfect host and a true ambassador for the British Virgin Islands. I seriously believe I’m a better person because of my time with John: I should only hope to be as good of a man as he is: that’s not hyperbola.

Note: The following is provided for any readers who have not yet traveled to the Virgin Islands who might now be considering it.  There’s a lot of detail here, even more than you found for our trip “to” the Virgin Islands, because I like to manage expectations.  I was not aware of just how convoluted the process was, hence my fascination with it and all of the related detail in this blog.

Anyway, we were whisked away by AC Taxi and arrived at the very full very terminal around 9:30am only to find a very large line queued at the Tortola Fast Ferry window trying to get their baggage checked and tickets for the 10:00am ferry

  • Our taxi ride was $10/pp with a $5.00 gratuity and as the bags came out of the back of the taxi the luggage hander for the ferry line grabbed and tagged them for the 10:00am ferry, earning him a $2/per bag tip from Ryan: doing the math and counting all of the bags, if the baggage handler doesn’t’ have to pay kickbacks or share his tips he’s doing pretty well.
  • We were in the ferry ticket line for 20 minutes before handing our passports, the return portions of our BVI customs declarations and my Visa card over to the agent so she could “clear us back in” from our visit and then issue us the same $50/pp ferry ticket and $5/per bag fee for the return trip to St. Thomas.
  • From the ticket office we next moved to the BVI “Departure Tax” collection window at the terminal where we were each charged $20 for the privilege of having visited the BVIs.
  • Next was queuing up for the customs check point where yet another check of our passports and confirmation we’d purchased ferry tickets and paid our departure tax was made: it was 10:15am at this point.
  • It was 10:30am when nearly all of the baggage had been loaded aboard the BVI Patriot for our sail back to St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, at which point the 100 or so passengers were boarded followed by the last few bags of luggage, including our own.
  • Our actual departure time was 10:40am for the hour-long trip from Tortola to St. Thomas, putting us at the Edward Wilmoth Blyden IV Marine Terminal around 11:40am, where the next round of clearing customs began:
    • Phase 1 was clearing US Immigration vis-a-via U.S. Customs & Border Protection at the ferry terminal, where after a 20 minute queueing line they looked at our passports, asked a few questions and signed-off on the declarations form I’d filled out on the trip over from Tortola.
    • Phase 2 was collecting our bags so they could be X-rayed as we once again presented our passports and turned in our declaration form and were finally allowed entry to the US Virgin Islands.
    • Next up was the 2nd $10/pp taxi ride to the airport where we were huddled together with five other “fares” in an 11-passenger van for the short drive from the ferry terminal to the airport, noting our driver apparently had a trainee in the forward passenger seat.
    • Phase 3 was “checking bags” at the Delta counter and it was a bit odd in that after waiting in line for 15 minutes watching people struggle to convert their checked baggage to “carry-on” since arrived too late to check their bags, we finally got our 2 large bags “checked” only to find we’d need to carry them to the TSA scanners just ahead of the TSA passenger and carry-on bag check-in point. Yes, a word of caution to travelers, don’t arrive within an hour of your flight’s departure time as they won’t accept checked bags at that point.
    • Phase 4 was, as noted, once again showing our passports and boarding passes to a TSA agent who then directed us to drop our check-on bags with the TSA agents moving the bags through the x-ray machines.
    • Phase 5 was finally reaching the passenger screening area with it’s 15-minute queuing line and vastly different instructions on what goes in plastic containers (pretty much laptops, liquids and something else we didn’t have) with shoes & carry-on bags on the belt: this appears to be their way of dealing with plastic container log jams as their body scanners are set to very high levels: I neglected to realize I had my passport in a side pocket and even the “foil” seal on the face of the passport triggered a body pat down. Our friend Ryan, who had nothing in his pockets, went through the pat down, a wipe down and another “deep” pat down before being allowed through the check point.

Having cleared TSA and being determined not to be an existential threat to U.S. National Security by around 12:40pm, we found a snack bar where we had some lunch and a few cocktails to take the edge off before moving over to our gate around 2:40pm to position ourselves for the 3:10pm start of boarding.  Thankfully, the flight was heavily booked which allowed Ryan, Jeanette and me to check our larger carry-on bags for the fight to Atlanta: always a coup when it’s offered since we know the bags will get there and we don’t have to pay the additional checked baggage fee!

Our flight departed a few minutes early and it was an uneventful flight.  We arrived about 20 minutes ahead of schedule at 7:10pm and by the time we made our way to the baggage claim area Ryan & Jeanette had already been there a good 10 minutes ahead of us given they were sitting right at the aircraft exit door on row 10, whereas we were back at row 30.  Amazingly, all of the bags for the flight had already made it to the carousels and they’d pulled our two large duffle bags and cooler out and had them sitting there for us.  After a short walk to the off-site parking lot shuttle bus pick-up zone and a short wait for the bus to our lot we were well on our way towards home.  The shuttle bus driver was clearly a new hire who was still finding his way with operating a large coach as well as learning the parking lot which added a little more anxiety to the end of our journey.  However, once we finally made it to our truck, we both let out a big sigh: we were almost home!  Thankfully, there wasn’t any traffic given it was nearly 8:30pm as we made our way around Atlanta on I-285.  We opted to go home and made dinner there vs. eating out as we just wanted to get home, unpack and relax.  Tomorrow we’ll begin the transition to “normal” life for the next six weeks before we head off for a tandem rally in South Carolina.


Final Thoughts:  We had a great time on what has been a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us and hope the same was true for our friends Ryan & Jeanette as this was their “big trip” of the year.  I don’t believe there were many moments when the four of us were not in sync on the original plan nor all-in on any of the activities, lest wading ashore to the Sandy Spit after our snorkeling at Little Jost Van Dyke. We all took turns either making meals or cleaning up afterwards and enjoyed a drama-free week, notwithstanding my stumble on the first night. We’ve seen and done things we’ve never seen nor done before and had some amazing moments with our friends we’ll cherish for a lifetime.

However, it was probably a few days too long for us as I believe “vacation fatigue” started to set in at Virgin Gorda.  This was one of our concerns as neither of us have ever been keen on taking trips longer than 5-7 days at the most, to include family visits.  Coming on the heels of our 7-day trip to Key West and an 8-day trip to Pennsylvania that included a 3-day tandem rally and 3 days of work around my folks home to keep me busy, stacking the 10-day trip to the British Virgin Islands and living on a 42’ catamaran with three other people, may have been a bit much.

That we had less than ideal weather for our last three days didn’t help since it precluded snorkeling and/or hiking which would have kept our minds and bodies far more active than they were with more sedentary activities.  But, we were thankful for the earlier days of the trip that did give us those opportunities and that’s what we’ll remember the most.

Most of the costs were what we expected, relative to the yacht lease, captain’s expenses and related water, fuel, ice associated with the yacht’s operation.  The taxi, ferry and rental car fees stacked up a bit and the cost of eating and drinking on the economy here in the BVIs was, as we expected, quite high.  If we could have held off on having adult beverages until after 5:00pm everyday we’d have done quite a bit better but, well, that’s not what you do on vacation!  And, as noted, once the less than ideal weather set in we found ourselves sitting at restaurants or on the …ish during  late mornings and afternoons with idle time and that always invites a bit more social drinking with it’s added expense.

In terms of the most memorable moments, that’s easy: it was the time we spent with our friends, Ryan & Jeanette, sharing the adventures, meals and otherwise just enjoying life.  Our captain, John, also brought another element of enjoyment and satisfaction to the trip. By all means, if you’re considering a sailing vacation in the BVI’s and are looking for someone to arrange a stress-free, enjoyable experience get a hold of John at Go Sailing BVI. John made life on the …ish easy, his suggestions and assistance in making dinner reservations for our on-shore activities were always spot on. He was just a true gentleman, an exceptional host and ambassador for the British Virgin Islands and yes… a friend throughout our time on the …ish.  Yes, at the end of the day there were a lot of great moments, but it was sharing those moments with dear friends who we truly love and enjoy being with that made it such a great adventure.

British Virgin Islands Cruise: Part 3 – Videos

So far I’ve created two videos from the clips I collected with my GoPro cameras.

This first one is a montage of our 1st day under sail on the …ish sailing from East End on Tortola to Treasure Point at Norman Island.  I think it does a pretty good job of capturing the therapeutic nature of cruising on a 36-ton catamaran in the Virgin Islands.

This second video is a 2-minute compilation of our 4 snorkeling dives at Treasure Point & the Indians near Norman Island, Long Bay at Little Jost Van Dyke and Monkey Point in White Bay off Guana Island. Sadly, the weather and sargassum precluded our dive off Anegada’s north coast.

I was working on a 3rd compilation when my 2011 MacBook Pro 17″ experienced a video processor failure, so that one’s on hold for now.  I think I can finish it on my Samsung PC laptop… when I have some spare time, that is.

Our Trip to Key West

This week was all about making our annual motorcycle trip down to Key West, Florida.  After getting ready to go on Monday, we headed out Tuesday for the first 450-mile leg down to Orlando for our 4th visit to the Hilton Grand Vacation’s Tuscany Village Resort, and then made the final 387-mile ride down to Key West for our 6th visit and 4th stay at the Cypress House.  We encountered a bit of traffic and rain as we got into the Keys but it was a good ride.  The trip home was a bit more of a challenge in that we decided to ride 600-miles to Valdosta, Georgia, so we’d have a shorter, 256-mile ride on Sunday and encountered a lot of rain and traffic on that long ride.  Thankfully, the 256-mile ride home on Sunday was perhaps the easiest, low-traffic ride or drive we’ve ever had on Interstate I75.

Note: If you’re a regular reader of our blog and just finished the July 8th Weekly Journal, like parts of the summary above, most everything else in this entry will be a repeat.  This one is just tailored down a bit for the folks who are mostly interested in motorcycle adventures.


Monday: Getting Ready For The Trip

Miss Debbie had a bit of a health issue last week but as of Monday it looked like we’d be good-to-go for the motorcycle ride down to Key West tomorrow.  With that in mind, it was around 10:00am when I headed out on the Harley to run a few errands.  I wanted to get a pair of tinted Mountain Shades Ergonomic Wrap, Wind Sport Roscoe glasses that incorporate a foam rubber seal between the glass frames and your face to keep dust, wind and rain from getting in behind normal sunglasses for our long rides on the Interstate.  I picked up a set of the same Roscoe glasses with clear lenses a few months back and they were great. Once we’re on non-interstate roads, normal wrap-around sunglasses are fine.  So, to get those I headed down to Cycle Gear in Hiram, Georgia, about a 25-minute ride.

Back at the house I moved the Bushtec trailer we tow behind our Harley Road Glide Ultra out of the shed and into the garage so it could be prepped and packed for the trip to Key West in the afternoon with the various riding gear, motorcycle-related tools, spare parts for the trailer — including several sets of wheel bearings, a bearing puller and press, etc. so as not to be nearly stranded like we were back on the May trip to Florida — ahead of packing our street clothes, my laptop and the cooler tomorrow morning.

Tuesday: The Ride to Orlando and an Afternoon at the Poolside Bar

I used some sleepless hours during the night to do a few more pre-departure things such as fixing a playlist on the Harley’s iPod, putting a wrench in my tool box that I’d need to remove a trailer wheel, switching out Debbie’s helmets so she’d have her full-face for the ride down and making sure our rain gear was packed in the saddle bags instead of the trailer so it would be easier to access and “suit up” if we ran into any heavy rain.

After a little breakfast and packing our bags into the trailer we were on the bike and out of the driveway by 5:50am, 10 minutes ahead of plan.  I decided to “test” our SunPass that we use on the Florida Turnpike to pay tolls on the I-75 Express Lanes in Atlanta, noting the “Georgia PeachPass” and Florida “SunPass” are purportedly accepted in either state.  We’ll see how that works out.  Of course, traffic was so light on Interstate I-75 we didn’t need to spend the $1.20 to use the expressway but, again, hopefully we’ll see if the SunPass works so we can continue to use the I-75 and I-85 expressways as we head in and out of Atlanta vs. sitting in traffic.

Being the 4th of July week, traffic through Atlanta and all the way down to Orlando, Florida, was relatively light… at least in the direction we were headed.  I took advantage of the mild 70°F and 80°F temperatures that we had for the morning ride to stretch our 1st “leg” to two and a half hours and 200 miles before stopping for gas.  It was a stretch to be on the bike that long for Debbie, but I knew there’d be a few of those on this trip so best to check it early.  We only made one other gas stop on what turned out to be a 7-hour trip down to Orlando, a record for us.  Past trips have usually included four 15-minute stops and a bit more traffic so this was really a nice treat arriving at 1:00pm.

The folks at the Hilton Grand Vacations at Tuscany Village couldn’t have been nicer when we arrived.  We were checked-in early and our request for a room in Building #1 on an upper floor was met so we were within easy walking distance to the pool side bar and grill.  After checking in I sent Debbie to the bar to secure some seats as we’d be camping out there for lunch and to watch the FIFA Women’s World Cup semi-final match between the USA and England.  I took the bike around to the parking lot in front of our building and got all of our luggage moved into our room, got out of my riding clothes and into some shorts and a t-shirt and then joined Debbie at the bar.  Much to our delight, our friend Mario was working the bar and he took great care of us.  We met him on our 1st solo motorcycle trip to Key West back in 2014.  He was born in Habana, Cuba, immigrated to the US, served in the U.S. Marines and is just a joy to visit with when we come to Hilton’s Tuscany.

Yes, the US won the match and we had a wonderful lunch, cocktails and a late afternoon snack before retiring to our room to relax and clean up a bit before we returned to the bar for dinner around 8:00pm, just ahead of the 8:30pm COPA American Semi-Final match between Brazil and Argentina on my laptop since we were able to stream the game over the Internet and set up the laptop on the bar so we and a few other guests who were also soccer fans could watch the match which wasn’t being offered by ESPN on cable.  Brazil won the match on penalty kicks shortly before 10:30pm when we retired to our room for the night.  It had been a long day.

Wednesday: The Ride to Key West and an Unexpected Surprise

We were up at 7:00am and that put us on plan for pre-8:00am departure after packing up the motorcycle and grabbing a little breakfast at the hotel’s pantry.

Traffic headed south towards Miami on the Florida Turnpike was light so, once again, we had a relatively easy time with just two gas stops for the 398-mile, 7-hour ride.  We rode through a light rain shower before we got into Homestead, Florida, and then another light shower between Florida City and Key Largo, with a final short rain storm and perhaps some hail about 20 miles East of Key West.  Thankfully, the really heavy rains had come through about 30 minutes earlier.  So, all-in-all, we did really well dodging the weather.  Yes, we had some heavy traffic near Florida City and then again on US1 between Florida City and Key Largo but that was really it.  Again, like the ride down to Orlando, we made really good time and kept moving on days when it would have been awful to have been caught sitting in traffic given the heat index.

As part of dealing with the heat, when we made a fuel stop in Key West I swapped out the 14″ windscreen on the Road Glide for the 9″ shorty screen to give me more airflow now that our riding speeds would be in the 35-55mph range instead of 80mph.  Debbie also opted to wear her 1/2 helmet for the rest of the ride vs. the full-face she’d been wearing since we left the house on Tuesday morning.

When we arrived at the Cypress House in Key West at 2:35pm and we were thrilled to see they were able to secure our usual parking space on the property for the motorcycle.  Yes, it would cost us $25/day this year, but that’s still less than what it would have cost for on-street parking or the parking garage 3 blocks from the hotel.

Note: For those who are curious, our Harley-Davidson Road Glide Ultra and the Bushtec trailer performed flawlessly on this trip: no drama or any issues of any kind.

As soon as we had everything moved into the room and the motorcycle and trailer stashed in our parking space, we headed two blocks west on Caroline Street to the Flying Monkey bar and grill at 3:00pm where we enjoyed our first cocktails in Key West and some buffalo chicken fingers while watching the FIFA Women’s World Cup match between Sweden and the Netherlands to see who would be playing the US in the final match on Sunday.  We had a great time re-hydrating and getting some food on our stomachs and eventually we also had an Ahi Tuna over spring salad for an early dinner at 4:30pm.  We headed back to our room around 5:00pm to finish watching the World Cup match that had gone into overtime and to relax.

Sadly, as we headed out for the evening we discovered that our favorite hangout in Key West was closed for remodeling, so our night time plans had to be altered dramatically.  We ended up at Sloppy Joe’s for a while listening to two different live bands that were OK but not great.  We stopped by Capt. Tony’s, Kevin’s Irish Pub and also checked out two of the places that had DJ’s — Rick’s Cafe and Fat Tuesday — but they were spinning South Beach top 40’s, not the real top 40’s music that we can dance to.  So, we ended up sitting on the 2nd story balcony of the Bull & Whistle Saloon people watching towards the latter part of the night before getting a slice of pizza from Angelino’s and then called it a night.  It’s not the night life we’d hoped we’d be enjoying but we made the best of it.

Thursday: A Good Day but a Short Night; Whoops

We woke up to the sound of thunder and rain as a storm moved through Key West right around 7:00am.  It was gone as quickly as it began, and after having a little breakfast at the Cypress House we officially began the day with our usual 2.5-mile walk from one end of Duval Street to the other.  When making this walk we are literally walking from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean, which is about a mile each way, and then we added at least another 1/2 mile wandered around a bit, visiting a few stores and finding nothing exciting.

We stopped for lunch at The Boat House, where we had a wonderful blackened Mahi Mahi sandwich.  From there we made our way to The Flying Monkey bar again where we had our daily dose of frozen drinks.  After lunch we did a little more exploring, sticking our noses in the bars and restaurants that we don’t typically frequent, spent some time walking along the waterfront and enjoying the view of the Key West Channel and all of the various activities that make use of it, e.g., fishing charters heading out or back, scuba diving excursions setting out on the 65′ catamaran’s, squadrons of jet ski rentals, parasailers, you name it.

Around 3:30pm we headed back to the Cypress House where we spent the rest of the afternoon visiting with the other guests in the pool.  Two of the couples were there with us last year and there were 3 or 4 other couples who we had a nice time chatting with.  It’s a very diverse crowd that you find at our little B&B and in Key West in general.  It was around 5:30 when we headed off for dinner at the Conch Republic Seafood Company where we ran into Bob & Rene from Delaware and Andre who works at the Cypress House as we sat down to have cocktails.  Sadly, I over-achieved on the two-for-one cocktails when I somehow ended up with a 3rd very deep pour.  Combined with being a bit dehydrated, only a light breakfast and lunch, it made for a short night for yours truly and, in turn, Miss Debbie.  Oh well, it happens.

Friday: A Tour of the Great Florida Reef & Dancing the Night Away

We began Friday the same as Thursday with our 2.5-mile walk down and back the length of Duval Street and did a bit more exploring.  Once again, we didn’t find anything all that special in any of the shops.  Other than art in all of it’s forms produced by local artists, most everything else being sold in Key West is junk made in China… and pretty much every shop has the same junk.  I guess that’s the downside of having visited Key West six times now: the newness wears off along with the shiny new thing luster.

As for lunch, we ate at Flying Monkey again because it was, well, convenient, good and a great value.  The highlight of our afternoon was taking a trip out to the Great Florida Reef on a 65′ long catamaran where a series of very thick glass windows were installed in the V-hulls at the bottom of two observation bays.

The Great Florida Reef is the only living coral barrier reef in the continental United States and, at width of about 4 miles and 170 miles in length, it is the third largest coral barrier reef system in the world.  The largest is Australia’s Great Barrier Reef and the second largest is the Belize Barrier Reef.  It took about 30 minutes to make the 6-mile cruise out to the reef and the boat sat over the reef for about 15 minutes which, combined with the boarding and de-boarding process comprised the 2-hour trip.  While it was interesting and is perhaps one of the few ways to personally observe the reef short of going in the water with either snorkeling or diving gear, it was not the greatest implementation of underwater viewing technology and is not the most user-friendly configuration.  Anyone with physical disabilities would be hard pressed to get much out of it, assuming they’d even be able to get on the boat, etc.  But, hey… we checked the box on Key West’s Glass Bottom Boat tour!

We were back in Key West promptly at 4:00pm, which gave us enough time to walk the 4 blocks back to our hotel where we cooled-off and relaxed a bit in our hotel room before joining the other guests out in pool.  Again, just a great collection of people with a wide variety of background and experience and all of us seem to find ourselves in Key West as a way of getting away from from it all.  Yes, despite it’s shortcomings, it is a very easy place to go to relax and either do a lot of “stuff” or do nothing at all.

After cleaning up a bit, we walked 3 blocks down to Bagatella’s restaurant, a place we were introduced to on our last visit.  Once again, the meal did not disappoint.  However, we must have gone on a weeknight last time when there wasn’t nearly as much “noise” coming from their neighboring businesses.  But, setting aside the noise, we split a wonderful Caesar salad and a near-perfectly prepared piece of Swordfish served over roasted corn & black bean risotto with grilled asparagus and a poblano cream sauce.

Following dinner we checked-out the live music up and down Duval Street and found quite a few really good musician’s, a very different group from the one’s we were seeing on the week nights.  The Hog’s Breath Saloon had an outstanding duo early in the evening — Dan Harvey +1 — and then a four piece jazz group called Happy Dog came on at 9:30pm and they were exceptional.  However, there’s not much of a dance floor at The Hog’s Breath and what little of it there was was taken up by fans of the band, or so it seemed.  From there we wandered down Duval Street and, once again, the DJ’s at Rick’s and Fat Tuesday were spinning the South Miami music, and while the band at Sloppy Joe’s was really good, that meant the place was packed so even though they had cleared a dance floor it was impossible to get to.  As we were walking past the Bull & Whistle Saloon the trio going by the name of the David Warren Band was on stage in the Bull (the downstairs bar & showroom) and they were exceptional.  Which is to say, the lead guitarist and vocalist (David Warren) was amazing and backed up by two really solid guys on the bass and drums.  The unusually lumpy stone and tile floor wasn’t the ideal dance floor but we spent a solid 2 – 3 hours dancing the night away just the same.  Yes, we finally got our dance groove on in Key West which allowed us to end our visit on a high note.

We passed on pizza after dancing and headed back to our hotel shortly after midnight, remembering that we needed to be up and on the road before 8:00am since we’d be making a 600-mile ride up to Valdosta, Georgia, on Saturday.

Saturday: A 600-mile Long and Wet Ride to Valdosta Georgia

Per plan, we were up early and had the motorcycle packed and ready to roll by 7:30 for the ride up to Valdosta, Georgia, some 600 miles away where we’d find a place to stay once we arrived.  We typically stop back at the Hilton’s Tuscany Resort in Orlando on the return trip from Key West, but we wanted to be back at home before 11:00am on Sunday so we could watch the FIFA Women’s World Cup Final match between Team USA and the Netherland’s.  That necessitated something less than the 7 to 8 hour ride from Orlando, so Valdosta looked to be a familiar place just a little under 4 hours from home, assuming we didn’t run into traffic on Sunday.

I wish I could say the ride to Valdosta was uneventful, but it was anything but.  The forecast for Florida gave us pop-up thunder showers from the Key’s all the way into South Georgia for the duration of our ride.  We lucked out as we made our way out of the Key’s by arriving in four different Key’s within 15-20 minutes after massive showers passed over the areas.  We only had to deal with the wet roads and dodge puddles, which was a relief since we were able to see all of these massive thunder heads moving across the Keys as we rode East on the Over-Ocean Highway, never mind other ones that were following closely behind.  When we arrived in Key Largo I decided to go ahead and swap out the small windscreen I used in the Keys for the larger, Interstate one a bit early as it looked like we’d eventually hit rain as it was falling on the 16-mile from Key Largo to Florida City, never mind more after that.  Sure enough, we ran into a light shower that we were able to ride through without stopping to “gear up” and got as far as North Miami before we pulled into a service island to top off the gas tank and put on our rain gear: a series of strong storms were brewing ahead of us.

All told, we rode through 8 different rain storms, three of which were very heavy where one of those just past Orlando was a downright deluge.  In addition to riding in light to very heavy rain for at least a few hours on the motorcycle, we had to make lengthy detours around two major accidents and ran into gridlocked traffic twice in places where there was no alternative to staying on the tollway to make our way North.   Unlike our ride down, I also made a point of stopping every two hours or so just to give us some time to stretch our legs and ended up taking an extended lunch break hoping the 25-minute back-up from an accident just north of Port St. Lucie might be a bit shorter if we waited it out for a while.  No such luck.

Anyway, we finally made it to Valdosta at 7:30pm and were able to find a room at the Hampton Inn.  With our room key in hand, we left the hotel and went to a nearby restaurant called Cheddars where we’ve stopped to eat on past trips through the area after discovering it during the 2017 Georgia Tandem Rally in Valdosta. We lucked out and were able to find seats at the bar even though there must have been 50 people standing around waiting for tables and had a lovely meal.

We returned to the Hampton Inn and found our room and then immediately requested a change as there were small children running around in the room just over ours.  They gladly moved us to a 4th floor room and despite being incredibly musty when we first walked it, it worked out just fine.  Seriously, this was absolutely one of the more tired Hampton Inn’s we’ve ever stayed and it’s way overdue for a make-over.  But, that said, the shower was warm, the towels plentiful and the bed and linens were comfortable enough to give us a good night’s rest and that’s all that mattered.

Sunday:  A Relatively East Ride Back Home & Three Soccer Finals

We were up at 6:00am and after grabbing a light breakfast at the hotel we had our overnight bag back in the trailer and were on our way towards home at 6:40am.  It was 72°F and foggy out so we started our 256-mile ride with our rain gear on to deal with any moisture as well as to keep us a bit warmer.  My guess was, we’d be able to take them off when we made our one stop about 1/2 way home near Macon, Georgia, around 8:30am.  The GPS suggested we’d be home around 10:12am, so add-in a 10-minute fuel stop / bathroom break and we’d be there well before the FIFA Women’s World Cup final got underway at 11:00am.

We ended up enjoying a traffic-free ride home with just that one stop north of Macon at 8:40am, pretty much per plan.  The temperature had only gotten to 78°F, but it would certainly start to rise quickly so we stowed the rain gear and pressed on and that worked out just fine.  We arrived home at 10:19am, right on schedule, after enjoying our very first drive North on I-75 where we encountered no back-ups or heavy traffic: it was truly a joy!

It didn’t take us long to get the motorcycle and trailer unloaded, our luggage unpacked and laundry underway… the usual post-trip activities.  The 1100am FIFA World Cup Final between the US and the Netherlands was a really good match and we were happy to see the US women prevail with a 2-1 victory.  We had a brief interruption in the broadcast when a thundershower rolled through about 30 minutes into the 1st half of the game, much to our surprise as there was no rain in the forecast until the afternoon… so yet another reason it was good we arrived home at 10:19am instead of 11:35am as we certainly didn’t need to ride through any more rain on this trip.

I spent my afternoon out in the garage cleaning the 1,751 miles of road grime off the Harley and trailer. The motorcycle was a mess, to be sure, and it looks like I may need to pull apart my taillight to figure out where moisture is getting in and under the lens.  That’s something for Monday or Tuesday when I also pull off the trailer hitch before putting the trailer back in the storage shed until late October for our next planned trip down to Panama City Beach, Florida.

Bike Issues: None!

The only issues we had with the bike and trailer on the entire trip were relatively minor:

  • There seemed to be an inordinate number of landscape and concrete trucks out on the Florida Turnpike near Port St. Lucie and Fort Lauderdale that had debris blowing or falling off their loads and pelting us at times when it was just hard to get clear.  In addition to us getting pelted the Harley’s front facing fairings took a few hits that I’ll have to touch up.
  • The Custom Dynamics ProBEAM sealed LED Taillight somehow ended up with a lot of moisture inside the assembly.  I’m guessing the year-old light had a dis-bond in the seal that allowed a little water in and Lord knows there was a lot of water on the roads that would have been thrown up against the rear fender.  However, a note to Custom Dynamics on Monday was answered with a new taillight headed this way under warranty: gotta love those guys.  Great products, service and support.

That was it.  Running the front tire at 40 psi seemed to allow it to self-heal some of the cupping that I was getting running the bike at between 36 and 38 psi.  I’d thought the front might need replacing before the trip but David, our tire guy at AllPro Garage, said it would be fine for this 1,750 mile trip and it was.  As for whether or not well get another Florida trip out of the tires in October, that remains to be seen.

Future Trips to Key West:  Maybe or Maybe Not

As for any future trips to Key West, we only rushed this one because we needed to be home by July 8th for our granddaughter’s 13th birthday and because we’ll be heading to Pennsylvania early on July 10th for a family visit and a 3-day tandem rally between the 11th and 17th before heading back home on the 18th.  On the 22nd we’ll fly down to the British Virgin Islands for a 10-day sailing cruise. So, yeah… it was probably a bit of a stretch to stick this Key West trip into a six-day window, in July.  Moreover, with this being our 6th trip to Key West we’re pretty familiar with the town and typically go to the same places now that the newness has worn off.  So, perhaps we’ll need to change things up in the future by making the trip at a different time of year or carving out more time for the ride down with stops along the way, Lord knows we have several friends who live along both Florida Coasts and inland as well and could easily “make our way” to Key West instead of doing the 2-day blitzkrieg days back-to-back coming and going.  And, then again, there are a lot of other places to go and visit so perhaps we should take a break from Key West for a few years.

Vacation Journal: Utah!

OVERVIEW

Seeing how this vacation journal has grown (or groan, as the case may be for some readers) to over 5,000 words, let me offer a short overview.

Back in early August our friends David & Deb invited to join them for a week-long sight-seeing trip to Utah during early October.  Sadly, we had a few too many October travel plans already locked-in, so they accommodated us and moved the trip to late September.

They flew out on the 22nd and we followed on the 23rd as we had a prior commitment on the 22nd. They spent Saturday & Sunday exploring Salt Lake City before picking us up at the airport late on Sunday afternoon.

During the following seven days we traveled some 1,300 miles by car from Salt Lake City, to Moab, then Hatch, Park City, Ogden and then back to Salt Lake City.  Along the way we visited:

  • Arches National Park
  • The Hole N” The Rock
  • Dead Horse Point State Park
  • Canyonlands National Park
  • Goblin Valley State Park
  • Capital Reef National Park
  • Bryce Canyon National Park
  • Scenic Byway Route 12
  • Utah Olympic Park
  • Antelope Island State Park
  • Old Park City
  • Uinta National Forest / Scenic Byway Route 92

The long hours in the car were a bit fatiguing, but there was never a dull moment and we were always having fun.  Great trip but good to be back home: we’ve got a busy month ahead of us!!


SUNDAY

We were up, had breakfast and were on our way to the airport by 9:30am and, after a gas stop to make sure I had a full tank for the drive home late next Sunday night, we dropped the truck off at Wally Park and took the shuttle to the airport.  The only “issue” had been the top handle breaking loose from our 50lb suitcase as I pulled it out of the truck. Oh well, I’ll fix that at some point, during or after our trip. Hey, it’s 16-years old!  I’m amazed it’s lasted this long without giving us any trouble.

Curbside check-in at the airport was a breeze and even getting through airport security wasn’t all that bad as we received TSA Pre-Check when we booked our travel through Delta on my Delta Rewards program.  We were a good 3 hours early for our flight and parked ourselves at the Gordon Biersch Brewery where we met a nice gal from Salt Lake City who gave us all kinds of sight-seeing recommendations.  We split a burger for lunch and killed a good hour at the bar.

After boarding, getting settled and having the aircraft pull back from the gate, we spent the next 30 minutes parked on the ramp while they did some trouble shooting on an error message from the on-board maintenance system. Thankfully, they were able to “reboot” the aircraft, clear the message and get an OK from flight operations to continue with the scheduled flight.  It was a bit of a bumpy ride and seemed a long longer than the 3 and 1/2 hours, but we made do reading and watching movies.

Our friends Deb and David had spent the night in Salt Lake City and picked us up at the airport around 5:30pm. From there we made the 239-mile / 4-hour drive down to Moab where we’d spend the evening and next two days.  We stopped at an Olive Garden restaurant for dinner before leaving “civilization” as there truly was nothing between Provo and Moab, never mind what was there in Moab was closed on Sundays!  It was a long drive and we were glad to be at our hotel for the night.


MONDAY:

Our biological clocks were definitely not on Mountain Time and were both up early, too early for Moab.  After tossing and turning for a couple of hours we got up and headed down for breakfast.  Looking out the windows we were amazed at the rock formations surrounding us, noting we had no idea what the area around Moab looked like since we came in during the night. After breakfast Debbie headed up to do some exercising while I stayed down in the dining area and did some work on my laptop, e.g., finances, Email, blog updates, etc.  I think it was around 9:30am when we left the hotel for Arches National Park, just a few miles up the road.

Just a disclaimer: I’ve got more photos than I’ll ever post to this blog: these will just be samplings.  Here’s a link to a full portfolio of all the photos from our Utah trip: LINK

Upon our arrival at the entrance to the National Park we sat in line for a good 30 minutes waiting to pay our entrance fee.  Once we finally reached the entrance I opted to buy an annual pass for the U.S. National Park system since we’d amortize the cost during just our visits to three National Parks in Utah.

To say the park and its sights were breathtaking would be an understatement.  No words or photos do the rock formations justice.  Moreover, they all look very different from different perspectives and as the sun moves they change even more.  Although most of our touring was done from the car, we did get out and do a little hiking at a couple of the more famous sights.  In fact, we make the 3-mile round-trip hike to the lower observation area for ‘Gentle Arch’ that included a pretty good climb up a rocky ledge.  Again, I’ll let a small collection of photos do the talking for what we saw at the park: just amazing.

  

From Arches National Park we headed back to Moab to get lunch and to run an errand or two.  After driving the length of the main street (U.S. Highway 191) through town we found the Blu Pig Restaurant and Bar, a place that David said had very good reviews.  We stopped there and had a really good time and a great meal.  Definitely a great little place.

From there we continued south to a tourist attraction called the “Hole N’ The Rock,” a former restaurant and home created by carving-out 50,000 square feet of sandstone from the base of a rock formation along U.S. Highway 191.  The first excavations were made in the early 1900’s, but the work that created the Hole N” The Rock began in earnest in the 1940’s.  You can read more about it in this Country Living article from July 2017.

From there we headed back towards Moab and made a quick stop at a True Value hardware store where I picked up some nuts, bolts and washers so I could repair the broken handle on our suitcase, at least well-enough to get us back home and do a proper repair.

After a short visit back to our hotel, we headed off to find Dead Horse Point State Park and then Canyonlands National Park, hoping to time our visit to Canyonlands to coincide with sunset.

Once again the photos don’t do the sights justice.  There’s a “legend” about Dead Horse  Point that gives the mesa overlooking the Colorado River its name that suggests cowboys used the mesa to corral wild mustang horses and then leave the unwanted ones to die of thirst.  At least a few accounts suggest that, while it was used as a corral, only once were the unwanted horses left on the mesa.  This mesa is also where the final scene from Thelma and Louise was filmed during which they drove their old Ford Thunderbird off a cliff and into a canyon.  Setting aside the legends and film history, it’s quite simply just an amazing place to see from the “Island in the Sky” that surrounds the various canyons formed over millions of years by the Colorado River and other bodies of water that have filled and flowed through this part of Utah.

 

We then made a short drive to the Canyonlands National Park where we were able to use our National Parks Pass once again; definitely an on-your honor entrance at that time of day.  The views of the Green River Canyon were spectacular, made more so by the light of the setting sun.  However, we received a fantastic “bonus” on our drive out as it was also a Harvest Moon and we were treated to an amazing “moon rise.”

  

We made our way back to town where we stopped at the hotel for a quick change of clothes and then headed down to the Moab Brewery for a late night dinner to end our day.  All told, we drove about 190 miles as we visited and toured the three parks and the Hole N” the Rock during our day-long excursion.  Spending a lot of time in the car would become a constant for most of this trip.  If I had to do it again, I think I’d focus on spending more time at just one of the destinations and include some mountain biking, hiking and other types of activity vs. just sight-seeing.  However, it was great to get out and see all there was to see.


TUESDAY:

Our destination today was the Riverside Ranch – RV Resort and Motel in Hatch, Utah, which would put us within a short drive of Bryce Canyon National Park.  It was about a 278-mile drive, made about 12-miles longer by stops at the Goblin Valley State Park and a scenic drive through Capital Reef National Park along Utah Route 24 (UT-24).  Both of these parks had been recommended by the gal from Salt Lake City whom we met while having lunch at the Atlanta airport on Sunday.

Goblin Valley State Park was mind-blowing!  Once again, the diversity of the geology here in Utah is amazing.  But, what we found at Goblin Valley was completely unexpected.  I’m glad I had no idea of what it was and had not seen any pictures before arriving.  Of course, if you’re reading this you’ll have no doubt seen a few photos: sorry about that!  It was well worth the detour off of UT-24.

  Once we were back on UT-24 we made our way through Capital Reef National Park and I’ll need a chiropractor to fix my neck after this trip. Every mile and at every turn there was yet another unique and attention grabbing rock formation, petrified dune or lush green valley along a river.  The north side of mountain ranges are completely different from the southern facing sides and so on.

  

As we exited Capital Reefs National Park we came into Torrey, Utah with a very inviting drive-in called Slackers Burgers.  What a great little place that was.  We took a very much-needed break for a late lunch before the final stretch of driving to Hatch where we arrived at The Riverside Ranch around 5:30pm.  We stayed in the small and rustic but very comfortable motel, noting they also had RV hook-ups and campsites.

It was probably around 7:30pm when we headed out for dinner at the Outlaw Saloon.  What made the Outlaw Saloon a must-visit place was their grass-fed, free-ranging beef offerings and the novelty of being your own grill master.  Yup, they present you with a raw piece of rib eye or T-bone steak and point you towards the large grilling island where you get to apply your seasonings and grill your steak over a 350*F gas grill.  The gentleman tending the bar — Andrew — was really a delight.  Just a guy from Wisconsin who follows the seasonal employment circuit: work hard for 6 months and then take 6 months off to enjoy life.  Between his company and the fantastic food, it was a great dining experience.

 

After a quick stop at a mini-mart / gas station in Hatch to pick up some beverages we headed back to our motel.  David & Deb joined a collection of other guests around a bonfire for the rest of the evening while Debbie and I retired to our room.  Debbie wasn’t feeling 100% and really needed to get off her feet and sleep a bit.  I did a little work on the vacation journal and apparently fell asleep with my hands still on the keyboard!


WEDNESDAY:

After breakfast at the Riverside Ranch and some additional time to allow David & Deb to wash some “smoked-up clothing” from their evening sitting by the fire pit visiting with other guests at the Riverside Ranch, we loaded up the Nissan Armada and headed towards Utah Route 12 – Scenic Byway, en route to Park City, Utah where we’d spend the next four nights at the Hilton Grand Vacations – Sunrise Lodge: about a 370-mile day.

Our first stop along Utah Route 12 (UT-12) was Bryce Canyon National Park.  To get there we first passed through the Red Canyon,  a 4-mile long stretch of road through orange-red limestone rock formations filled with a variety of turrets, hoodoos, pinnacles and spires formed over time by erosion, in much the same way was the goblins in Goblin Valley.

We made stops at several overlooks and saw the famous Bryce amphitheater with its sandstone towers, natural bridges and arches as well as the beautiful vistas. To be quite honest, we did ourselves a disservice by visiting Arches, Canyonlands and Capital Reefs National Parks before Bryce, never mind Goblin Valley: they made Bryce seem underwhelming.  Don’t get me wrong, the views were spectacular, but they just paled in comparison to what we saw over the previous two days.  That and Bryce also seemed far more commercialized with camp grounds around every corner, businesses lined up along the entrance and more than enough tourist traps.  However, we’re glad we made the stop.

As we resumed our trip up Scenic Byway UT-12 the topography and sights along the 113-mile drive back up to UT-24 at Torrey, Utah were simply amazing and there were a few that bear special mention to go along with some of the photos.

The first was the Powell Point & The Blues Overlook.  We saw Powell Point with its summit at 10,188 feet well before we began the twisty climb up to the pull-off at the scenic overlook of  “The Blues” a badlands of gray-green shale deposited over 80 million years ago when the area was covered by an inland ocean.

The next “wow” of the drive came shortly after we had a really great lunch at the Circle D Eatery: highly recommended!  Really, huge portions of delicious food in a spotless, upscale looking restaurant that was actually a great value. But, I digress….

We next came to the Head of the Rocks Overlook with an amazing view out and across the  Escalante Canyons where a turbulent ocean of slick rock stretches almost as far as the eye can see. Some 168 million years ago, these striated cream-and-red sandstone formations were sand dunes. However, what also makes this particular stretch of UT-12 even more fascinating is the story of the Million Dollar Road, the stretch of UT-12 that winds through this incredibly rugged, rocky area.  Completed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in 1940, the Clem Church Memorial Highway passes through the Escalente Canyon and then across the top of Hogsback Ridge with grades that reach 14% and S-curve after S-curve and, of course, the 109 foot bridge across the Hogsback Ridge’s Death Hollow with its 800-foot drops on both sides.  Since just driving along the stretch of road causes everyone to grip the wheel of their vehicles a little tighter the real question that runs through your mind is, how the heck did they build this road back in the 1940s? If you’re not bothered by the heights, steep drop-offs and not driving the vehicle, the vistas along this stretch of road are breathtaking.

 

Beyond the city of Bolder and nearing the summit of Boulder Mountain — with its Aspens and free range cattle grazing all over the place — is Homestead Overlook.  The panoramic views from the 9,400-foot-high scenic point are spectacular.  To our left were the five peaks of the Henry Mountains, below in the valley were the magenta wedge of the Waterpocket Fold, to our right were the striated rock face of the Kaiparowits Plateau and off in the distance were the Navajo Mountains.

We came down off Boulder Mountain into the town of Torrey at Utah Route 24 (UT-24), just a mile ahead of where we had lunch at Slacker’s Burgers the day before.  I will note, we had first discussed just heading to Park City via the most direct route vs. adding the 3.5-hours it would take to make the drive up UT-12 and we were all glad we opted to take the time for the scenic drive: it was well worth it!  To have come this far and by-passed it just to save a little time on a week-long trip would have been a shame.

It was around 2:30pm when we began the second leg of our drive up to Park City from Torrey: it was a 220-mile stretch that put us into Park City around 7:30pm.  We made our way to Old Park City and had dinner at Butcher’s.  We made the most of the 2-for-1 special and had a really good meal: David had the prime rib, Deb had shrimp & grits, and we had seared tuna steak.

After dinner we made our way over to the Canyons resort area below Park City and found the Hilton Grand Vacations – Sunrise Lodge, where we checked-in for the next four nights.  Amazingly, this would be the least expensive of the places we’d stayed thus far.  However, we were really surprised to discover the hotel has no restaurant, bar or even a light breakfast offering so all of our meals will have to be taken “out” instead of at the hotel.  With that in mind, after checking in we ventured out into the nearby entertainment and dining complex, only to find that just about every bar and restaurant was on off-season hours and closed by 9:00pm.  We ended up taking the hotel’s shuttle bus back to Old Park City and spent a good hour or so at O’Shucks, a semi-dive bar.  We took an Uber ride back to the hotel just before mid-night and that was the end of our day.  It was a long day…


THURSDAY

Despite the paper-thin walls and floors of the Hilton that allow every sound from adjoining rooms to come through — pretty much what we discovered at Tuscany in Orlando — we both slept pretty well.  The only real, nagging issue we’re having is the incredibly dry, arid climate which is playing havoc with us.  Dry skin, chapped lips, sinus issues, bloody noses, bloating, etc. have been an uncomfortable constant throughout the trip and no amount of hydration seems to correct for it.   But, as I said, we still both enjoyed a pretty good night’s rest.

We were both up around 6:00am and did our best not to get going too early as it would be around 9:00am before we headed off to breakfast with David & Deb.  To make the best of our morning, I went down to the hotel’s fitness center and spent about 30 minutes on a stationary bike while Debbie stayed in the room and did her exercises.

After returning to the room and grabbing a shower I was able to catch up on my email and other personal business and even knocked out a little writing on this vacation journal.  I’ve continued to get more comfortable with my new 13″ Samsung laptop which, with its very compact size, has been a real treat to have vs. my huge 17″ MacBook Pro.  I’m able to do just about everything I did on the MacBook, less photo editing.  I’m still working on that so the photos that go with this blog still haven’t been added at this point.

As per usual, it was around 9:00am when we began our day in earnest.  We headed down to Leger’s Deli for breakfast, since there wasn’t anything at or near the hotel. Debbie and I split a really tasty pastrami & chicken sandwich with full garden and avocado on sourdough but it ended up giving me indigestion all day: or, was that the Kavanaugh hearings I was keeping up with?  Regardless, it did slow me down a bit as that was on top of all the other ailments I’ve already mentioned.

From Legers we headed to the Utah Olympic Center to visit the museum and explore the remaining ski jump, freestyle and bobsled facilities.  It was a very compact facility but they certainly had all of the bases covered as far as training for year-round training for ski-jump and freestyle aerials.

From the Olympic Center we briefly returned to the hotel to see what the concierge had to offer in terms of meal planning / restaurant recommendations for the balance of our stay before heading off towards the Antelope Island State Park near Odgen, about an hour’s drive north through Salt Lake City.

Antelope Island State Park was more-or-less a peninsula when we arrived as the Great Salt Lake was fairly low given the time of year.  With a total area of 42 square miles, 15 miles long by 4.5 miles wide, it is home to free-ranging bison, mule deer, bighorn sheep, pronghorn sheep (aka, antelope), coyotes, badgers, bobcats and numerous birds of prey such as owls, hawks and falcons and hundreds of different types of migratory birds.  Visitors are welcome to camp, hike, bike and explore the island and can visit the Garr Ranch, one of the oldest permanent settlements in Utah.

After entering the park through the town of Syracuse, we drove across the causeway and made our way to the north side of the island where we had lunch at the Island Buffalo Cafe, which was basically a concrete block building with windows and a short-order kitchen and the only place that sells food on the island.  Well, of course we had to have the Buffalo Burgers…  noting that they should be called Bison Burgers since that’s what inhabit the island.

We drove to the various scenic overlooks and made our way out to the Garr Ranch, catching views of the free ranging bison, at least one of the antelope, perhaps a bobcat and quite a few different types of birds.  It was well worth the visit.

 

After returning to the Hilton we had a little down time before heading to a local Italian restaurant called Trio.  Like most places we’ve been, it was nearly empty when we walked in but we made our way to the empty bar for cocktails and dinner.  Dan was the barkeeper — a young man who followed his Air Force dad around the world and landed in Odgen, Utah and then made Park City his home where he tends bar, skis and cycles — and we had a great time chatting with him and getting a few recommendations on other bars and restaurants we might like.  Debbie and I stuck with salads as our entrees, hers with chicken and mine without: I just needed greens!  David & Deb a pizza and it was all really quite good and reasonable.

From Trio we headed across the way to Bout Time, a sports bar that was really just our cup of tea for a night spot.  We had a great time there catching the Thursday night college and pro football games and otherwise just taking in the sights and sounds of the pub.  Our barkeeper was Eric — a transplant who has been tending bar and teaching snow boarding after giving up his home improvement business in San Diego during the housing bust 10 years ago — After a short stop at Walmart to pick up breakfast items, we headed back to the Hilton and called it a night.

Friday would be a casual, down day with an afternoon visit to Old Park City where we’ll wander around and see what there is to see.


FRIDAY

Per our plan, we stayed in our room for most of the morning, making breakfast in.  Debbie dutifully did her exercises while I checked my Email, worked on the vacation journal and kept up with current events.

We ventured out to Old Park City around 10:30am and spent the better part of the late morning and early afternoon walking around and wandering into various different shops and galleries along Main Street.  Debbie found a few things that struck her fancy and I was really amazed at how ski equipment had changed since the late 1980’s when I last went alpine skiing on my old Rossignol 3G GS ski’s.  We sure didn’t wear helmets back in the day and the ski’s are almost twice as wide and not nearly as long: very strange on 1st glance.

 

For lunch, we camped out at the No Name bar: wow, what a place!  It’s one of those joints that is probably backed-up by some big money, but still has that warm and cozy bar feeling.  It’s definitely a place where we could hang-out and watch a ball game or just sit and visit with friends.

We headed back to the hotel and spend the afternoon relaxing a bit in our room before heading out to get in a late afternoon walk around The Canyons Village, a food, shopping and entertainment complex situated in the middle of the resort hotels.  This was a part of Park City that didn’t exist the last time I was up here in the 80’s.

After meeting Deb and David at Draft’s Burger Bar, we headed back down to the Bout Time Pub for dinner.  Our return visit to Bout Time got off to a shaky start when the two gals tending the bar seemed to be overwhelmed by some technical issues. However, our keeper — Elizabeth, a transplant from Florida who teaches 2nd grade during the day and tends bar at night to make ends meet as teachers wages in Utah are apparently some of the lowest in the US — was able to gain her stride and did a good job of taking care of us.  The meals all ended up being really tasty so, all-in-all, another good visit.

We returned to the hotel and parted company with David & Deb who headed back to Draft’s Burger Bar for a nightcap while Debbie and I headed back to our room to warm up and get some rest. For some reason we found that we were both getting chilled by the night air in Park City, even though it really wasn’t all that cold.  Perhaps it was a combination of the cooler, thin and dry air.

About the only other noteworthy news of the day was that our friends Chuck & Julie would once again be joining us in Daytona for bike week in mid-October.  That was great news, as we’ve really been looking forward to that trip.

As for what Saturday will bring, we’re still working on that plan.


SATURDAY

Despite an early evening, we both slept in a bit this morning.  I started my day working on my Quicken accounts and that did not go well.  After reworking all of the Categories and then scrubbing 90 days worth of ledger entries I realized something was seriously wrong in the accounting and had to wipe out my main account.  It was so screwed up that it would be easier to rebuild from a back-up and do over, something that would wait until later in the day.

Around 10:30am we joined up with David & Deb and headed off on yet another driving tour, this time our destination was the Uinta National Forest and Scenic Byway Route 92., aka, the Alpine Loop Scenic Drive.  The 20-mile drive winds through rugged alpine canyons of the Wasatch Range below Mount Timpanogos and other glacier-carved peaks southeast of Salt Lake City. Although we didn’t stop at either one, Timpanogos Cave National Monument and Robert Redford’s Sundance Mountain Resort are located along the route. We had a minor issue just as we entered the Uinta National Forest due to college students parking along both sides of UT-92 despite the no-parking signs, reducing it to an impromptu one-lane road with two way traffic; ugg, what a mess.  They were apparently attending some type of a conference at BYU’s Aspen Grove Family Camp adjacent to the entrance to the park.

The scenery along the drive was spectacular, but very different from what we saw even on Boulder Mountain or anywhere else during our travels around Utah.  Driving the narrow road with two-way traffic with drivers of questionable skills and judgement, cyclists and members of the university of Utah’s cross-country ski team working on on roller skis made the journey a bit tense at times.  We we were glad we made the journey but, in retrospect, should have probably made it during the week instead of on a Saturday.

 

After leaving the park we made our way back around the Wasatch Mountains through Provo and stopped at Melvins Public House in Heber, Utah, for lunch.  As perhaps our last stop on our pub crawl through Utah it did not disappoint.  The barkeeper, Correy, was excellent as was the food and overall environment.  They had plenty of large screen TVs with the college games on, most importantly… the Georgia vs. Tennessee game.  Just a great time with our great friends, David & Deb.

We headed back to our hotel for some additional down time, which Debbie and I spent in our room where we finished watching the Georgia / Tennessee game.  Well, OK: Debbie napped and I resumed work on my Quicken account.  Lots of good games and, thankfully, I think I was able to get my Quicken account straightened-out and aligned with the host accounts at Morgan Stanley, American Express and Wells Fargo.  I was also able to do most of my bill-paying on line from Utah, which is pretty slick.  I’ve got a few more accounts to add to my bill-payee profile but after that I should be 100% on line for bill paying.

For dinner, we headed back to “Loco’s West”…  the Bout Time Pub.  Our server from Thursday night, Eric, took care of us while we enjoyed just about every college football game on their vast array of big screen TVs.   Like Loco’s back at home, Bout Time just has the right vibe for us: casual dining, attentive staff, good food and a bunch of regulars who enjoy a relaxed time at a good pub.

We were back at the hotel by 9:30pm, which was just fine for us as we were pretty much gassed after a week of being sight-seeing tourists: perhaps for a few too many days.  Debbie and I were both thinking we’d have done well to rent a couple mountain bikes for the past few days that we were in Park City and hit the bike paths and trails… just to get the cobwebs out.  Of course, to her credit, Debbie has been very diligent about getting in 30 minutes or more of exercise a day, whereas I only managed one day on a stationary bike.

We’ll head out to Salt Lake City around 11:00am tomorrow and will need to be at the airport by 3:00pm for our 5:20pm flight that will get us back into Atlanta around 11:00pm and home by perhaps 1:00am.  Yup, it will be another long day, that’s for sure.


SUNDAY

We checked out of the Hilton Grand Vacations – Sunrise Lodge at 10:00am and headed off to Temple Square in downtown Salt Lake City.  It was a very windy morning with very hazy skies, most likely filled with dust picked up by the high winds.

The Salt Lake Temple and surrounding buildings such as the Tabernacle and Assembly Hall, were beyond impressive.  We spent a great deal of time in the visitor’s center where the exhibits focused on the temple and the importance of families in the Mormon community, noting that visitors may enter the Assembly Hall and Tabernacle, but not the Temple which is reserved as a special place for members of the Latter Day Saints.  Like Utah itself, I’m now compelled to do a bit more reading on the Mormon story.

After our visit to Temple Square we headed a few blocks to Gracie’s Gastro Pub where we’d grab some lunch and catch Sunday’s NFL games while we waited to head to the airport for our 5:19pm flight back to Atlanta.

We arrived at the airport around 3:00pm, topped-off the gas tank in David’s rental car before dropping it off — which proved to be a bit of a challenge for some reason — and then made our way through curbside check-in, the TSA checkpoint where we thankfully had PreCheck again, and then found our gate where we camped-out for the next 90 minutes before boarding the very crowded flight.

It was an uneventful flight. Debbie spent the majority of her time reading since the inflight entertainment system didn’t have Sunday Night Football available as a viewing option. I split my time reading and watching a movie to pass the time.

After arriving in Atlanta we met back up with David & Deb and headed to baggage claim where, for unexplained reasons, it took an inordinate amount of time for our baggage to arrive.  After that we headed off to find our parking lot shuttle bus and, once again, we found ourselves waiting far too long for the bus to arrive: on the order of 30 minutes or so.  We’re still not sure what their story was, but it certainly didn’t endear us to Wally Park for any future travel needs.  It was 12:15pm when we finally made it out of the parking lot headed for home.

We stopped at the Waffle House for a bite to eat on the way home, not completely sure what we had on hand at the house and also not wanting to start cooking at 1:00am.  After our waffles and hash browns, we finally arrived back home.  Debbie headed straight for bed while I got the luggage out of the truck, unpacked and put away, as I was still a bit “wired” from the day’s journey and not really back on East Coast time.  It think it was around 2:45am when I finally went to bed for a restless night.

And there you have it…

Our Costa Rica Resort Vacation…

So, where to begin?

The past seven days have been about getting away from it all and doing a “real vacation.” By real vacation, for the first time ever we got on an airplane and flew outside the US to resort destination: Secrets Papagayo on the northwest coast of Costa Rica… which is nestled between Nicaragua and Panama.

The closest thing we’ve done to this in the recent past was a quick trip down to Key West via air in July 2013 instead of riding down to Key West on the Harley as we’ve done since. And that’s what most of our “vacations” have been, motorcycle trips or cycling trips where at least ½ of our time would be spent riding a motorcycle or a tandem bicycle.

Bottom Line: it was a great experience and even though we have nothing to compare it to aside from a couple stays at Hilton Grand Vacation resorts I would say it’s something we’ll do again but with a bit more research and most likely without using an intermediary as I’m not sure there was a lot of any added-value with that on this trip.  As far as the resort we stayed at — Secrets Papagayo — the staff was superb and that is what made it so enjoyable along with having good friends to share time with.  I’d also be remiss in making mention that while Costa Rica is generally thought of as a 3rd world country I was very impressed that they were far more 1st world than many places in the US in terms of energy and resource conservation.  Perhaps that’s a by-product of having an economy that doesn’t take its natural resources and income / level of living for granted.  Lots of solar, recycling, an intense focus on limiting waste in every way.

The back story on the trip:  Debbie and our friend Sharon were both turning 60 this year and Sharon wanted to invite a group of friends to travel to a resort where they could help her celebrate her 60th on 5 August. Our friends Ryan & Jeanette typically spend two weeks every late July & early August vacationing as they celebrate their anniversary and Ryan’s birthday.  With Ryan, Jeanette & Sharon’s special days falling so close together there have been a few years when their vacation plans intersected with either resort trips or the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally.  Secret’s Papagayo resort in northwest Costa Rica became the destination after some consultation between Ryan, Jeanette, Sharon & Jeff and then the invitation was extended to several different groups of Sharon’s friends with slightly different travel plans.

  • Ryan & Jeanette arrived on 22 July and would be staying until 6 August
  • Jeff & Sharon arrived on 29 July and would be staying until 7 August
  • Debbie and I arrived on 29 July but would only be staying until 3 August
  • Patti & Brad arrived on 1 August and would be staying until 6 August
  • Julie & Chuck arrived on 2 August and would be staying until 6 August
  • Sharon’s other friends Jim & Pam arrived on 4 August and would be leaving on 7 August

As much as we would have loved to have stayed for the entire 8 night, 9 day visit there were both work and personal factors that played into our travel plans and the overlap in plans was the best we could come up with, noting we originally thought the entourage would be arriving on 29 or 30 July when we originally set our travel dates.


GETTING READY TO GO

We had a little bit of anxiety around the trip since we opted to use a travel agent vs. booking it ourselves where we’d have an intimate understanding of all the arrangements. We learned a lot from the experience and at the end of the day everything worked out just fine.  Much of this was because Costa Rica is a USA-friendly destination so customs, immigration and currency exchange were all non-issues.  We also received a lot of excellent assistance from a Delta gate agent and the staff at Secrets.  But, as I said, I think we’ll most-likely do a bit more homework before handing off the arrangements to a third-party… but never say never.

Setting aside the travel arrangements, Debbie and I both had a to-do list of things to take care of before we left for a week-long vacation and we worked those off throughout the week. The big-ticket item on the list was finalizing the sale of our Honda S2000 which was good to have behind us. Beyond that it was just “stuff” that needed to be done. The big push was on Friday when was off from work and needed to get the yard work taken care of along with a litany of other things, including a few hours of work in the morning. Packing wasn’t a big deal, as we didn’t need much for a “sit by the pool and relax” resort trip. We also learned on our Vegas trip that when you get two-free bags to check, check the cosmetics bag to avoid the liquid-related issues and pull out that big 100L suitcase vs. using the two 50L cases. We had ourselves squared away by mid-afternoon and were at Loco Willy’s for our Finally a Friday celebration by 5:30 which allowed us to  get home in time to finish up packing as we’d have to be out of the house by 7:00am for our 10:00am flight out of Atlanta on Saturday morning.


SATURDAY, THE TRIP TO COSTA RICA & DAY 1 AT SECRETS

Sadly, I was not able to sleep at all before leaving on our trip, which isn’t unusual for me. I always seem to have a hard time sleeping before any long road trip and given this would be our first international trip… yeah, zero sleep. This lack of sleep provided some interesting moments throughout the rest of the day.

I had our bags zipped-up, down and in the truck by 6:45am and even had enough time to grab a little breakfast before heading down the road to the airport. Of course, take a sleepless night, an anxious body and add food to it and you now have an anxious stomach: ugg. Yeah, it was not the effortless, fun-filled morning I’d hoped for.

Perhaps the most interesting thing that happened on our drive to the airport was when a motorist on I-75 motioned from an open car window to Debbie to lower her window so he could tell her something. Turns out, after loading the three bags in the back of the truck bed I neglected to close the tailgate. Thankfully, the truck bed has an indoor/outdoor carpet liner that keeps the luggage from sliding around so when we pulled onto the shoulder of the Interstate and I walked around to the back of the truck all three bags were still sitting exactly where they were supposed to be after 15 miles of driving. So, yeah… I wasn’t exactly firing on all mental cylinders on Saturday morning.

The drive down to the airport was uneventful after that and the FastPark & Relax Lot was “the best” airport parking lot we’ve used… ever! Great experience and an easy ride over to the International terminal. Curbside check-in with the Skycaps was also a breeze as was the TSA Pre-Check.

We waited in the upper terminal so we could meet up with Sharon & Jeff who were on the same flight with us and running about 15 minutes behind. After meeting up with Sharon & Jeff and making the trek to the gate we were able to quickly resolve one of the sources of our travel anxiety by finally securing our assigned seats… and they were side-by-side too! Up and until that point we weren’t sure where we’d be sitting as seat assignments didn’t show up on our tickets and when I tried on-line check-in I discovered there weren’t any open seats together. While we were at the gate with the helpful gate agent we also were able to secure our seat assignments for the return flight on 3 August which was another added relief since that was also an unknown.

I was finally able to vanquish my last remaining bits of anxiousness when I had a double shot of Patron over at TGI Fridays as the rest of the group had coffee and a little breakfast at the food court. Yup, life quickly became a lot more enjoyable after my early morning double as you can easily see in our impromptu group photo at the food court: pretty sure I wasn’t doing all that much smiling up and until visiting TGI Fridays.

Our flight to Costa Rica would cover 1,600 miles and two time zones over the course of about four hours. This was quite opportune as I’ve struggled to find the time and focus I needed to make some headway in reading the book by Charles Mann entitled ‘1491 – New Revelations of the Americas Before Columbus‘.   Upon our arrival in Costa Rica, getting through immigration took about 20-30 minutes as our flight arrived about 20 minutes late which stacked us up behind an American Airlines flight that arrived on time. We had no previous point of reference for how long it should take to get through customs so the 20-30 minute wait was OK for us. After that, we breezed through customs, were greeted by a Delta Travel agent who in turn introduced us to Glennis, our Secrets Concierge, who escorted us to our shuttle bus to the resort. Glennis gave us a very nice overview of the resort on the 30 minute drive.

Sadly, when we arrived at Secrets we learned our room selection wasn’t quite what we expected. Instead of being in a standard room with a king bed and panoramic ocean view, we were booked into a bungalow with twin beds and a tropical view. There was also some other confusion over whether or not we were the odd-men out on a premium package which further muddied the waters.  However, within about 15 minutes the wonderful staff at Secrets were able to move us to the desired hilltop room overlooking the ocean bay for what amounted to a $275 up charge: it was well worth it as we ended up with a million dollar view!And, if that wasn’t reason enough, it also put us in a room right below Ryan & Jeanette for our entire stay which worked out quite well.

After being shuttled to top of the resort and getting settled into our rooms we quickly changed into our swim wear and headed down to the main pool where we were told our friends Ryan & Jeanette — and yes, everyone on the staff who interacted with the guests knew all of us by name within just a day — could be found at the swim up bar.  Oh yeah, this was shaping up nicely.

After spending a few hours enjoying the pool-side bar with our friends and making quite a few new ones, we were advised we’d be having dinner at Hitmitsu, the on-site Pan-Asian restaurant complete with hibachi grill-side dining, which is what Ryan & Jeanette had planned for us.  Sadly, given I hadn’t slept in 39 hours, I don’t have a vivid recollection of our dinner.  However, I think it was really good!  But I’m guessing I wasn’t much of a conversationalist at the table that evening.  But, I will say as we walked from the restaurant to the shuttle pick-up point my feet almost moved me toward the live music coming from the Sugar Reef bar.


SUNDAY, DAY 2 AT SECRETS

Early to rise… like 3:30am which would have been 5:30am at home. We tossed and turned a bit and Debbie was able to drift back off to sleep while I waited for sunrise.

Once I had a little bit of natural light I was able to get all three of the cell phones connected via the resort’s WiFi service so I could catch up with Email and whatnot.  Yeah, it would have been nice to fully disconnect for the week but that no longer seems possible for a variety of reasons.

Regardless, I think it was about 6:00am when we finally gave up on trying to sleep and headed off for our morning walk “on the beach.”  I say this jokingly in that the beach along the shore of our resort isn’t quite the same as the beaches we get to enjoy at Panama City or Daytona Beach, Florida, where we have miles and miles of lovely white sand at our disposal.  No, the beach along this part of Costa Rica’s coast has been formed by the erosion of lava noting there are over 50 volcano’s dotting the landscape, many of which are still active.  Interestingly enough, the water is still crystal clear but looks murky near the beach because what you’re seeing is the black sand. However, the biggest limiting factor was that the beach at high tide was perhaps 200 yards from end-to-end.  However, all was not lost as there were well over a mile of roads within the resort that meandered up and down the very hilly but lush and lovely landscape which allowed us to get in about 2.5 miles of walking before breakfast.

After our walk we wandered into the Market Cafe for the daily breakfast buffet.  They also served breakfast at a small outdoor restaurant near the spa called Aqua and for Preferred level guests at the Seaside Grill.   After breakfast we returned to our room, put on swim suits and prepared to spend the better part of the day at the main pool with it’s wonderful pool side swim-up bar, the Manatee.

As we staked-out lounge chairs for ourselves and our four friends, they all began to emerge from their respective breakfast restaurants of choice and joined us poolside.  The sun was intense even at just 9:00am in the morning and the pool while comfortable didn’t exactly cool you off as it was near body temperature. Given it was an all-inclusive resort, the designer breakfast drinks and adult beverages began to flow early.  I was also introduced to Costa Rica’s version of Diet Coke: Coca Cola Light, or Coca-Light.  I will say I enjoyed the taste and the name better than the Diet Coke that’s sold here in the states.

Around lunch time the skies became a bit overcast and a light rain shower came through as we joined Sharon & Jeff and Ryan & Jeanette at the Seaside Grill.  Technically, only guests who paid for the premium Preferred level rooms and service are permitted in the Seaside Grill for breakfast and lunch but since this was the off-season and there were so very few Preferred-level guests, they allowed Sharon & Jeff (who were Preferred guests) to host us for lunch.  It was a very good meal and a very nice dining experience.

I should note, the resort had an amazing entertainment staff that hosted some kind of special activity about every hour on the hour, including snorkeling, kayak and paddle boarding, water volleyball, beach volleyball, cooking lessons, water aerobics, yoga, dance lessons, painting and a for additional fees on-site vacation hosts could book fishing, jet skis and a variety of other tours and activities.  Miss Debbie, Sharon & Jeanette all joined in for the afternoon water aerobic’s workout in the main pool.

  

Jeanette, Sharon, Debbie and I also signed-on to learn the Cha Cha at the 3:00pm dance lesson along side the pool area. Not sure any of us are ready for prime time but we now know the basics and can at least practice it along with our waltz and rumba steps.

Around 4:30pm a very strong thunderstorm moved in over the resort that lasted well into the night. And when I say very strong, I mean of epic proportions to anyone like us who had not previously experienced equatorial rain forest thunderstorms.  Power came and went several times after we took a shuttle bus back to our rooms to get ready for dinner.  The staff was well versed in what it takes to ensure the 200-300 or so guests who were on the property always had umbrellas, plenty of covered spaces to enjoy and the aforementioned shuttle bus services needed to move everyone around the sprawling complex with its wide variety of restaurants and other accommodations.

We ended up heading down to Portofino with its gourmet Italian cuisine for dinner.  As we waited for our table we enjoyed some cocktails at the upper pool side Barracuda bar as the rain fell on the deep blue lighted and now empty pool.

 

Yes, despite the rain we were a happy group. Well, pretty happy.  Shortly before dinner lightning either hit or blew-out a transformer in the lower bungalow area leaving our friends Jeff & Sharon in the dark and without air conditioning.  With the assistance of our wonderful maître d’ the resort staff was able to make another room available to Jeff & Sharon for the night that was not affected by the power outage.

After dinner we called it a night and returned to our respective rooms. The “light show” continued for several hours and we had a bit of added excitement when a raccoon attempted to join us in our room for the night.  You see, on Saturday night we shut off the A/C and opened up the glass doors to our patio so we could enjoy the fresh air and sounds of the rain forest.  I’d thought the screen doors latched so no worries.  However, on Sunday night almost as soon as I shut off the light one of the screen doors suddenly slid open about a foot, prompting me to intuitively shout “get the hell away” not really knowing who or what caused the door to open.  It was at that point I discovered the screen doors didn’t really latch securely and recalled hearing from other guests how raccoons had gotten into their room.  So, that put an end to our fresh-air nights as I had no other option than to close and latch the glass doors.


MONDAY, DAY 3 AT SECRETS

We had to skip our morning walk on Monday as we all signed-up for a 3/4 day long excursion on Monday that would take us out to Filadelfia, Guanacaste and Palo Verde National Park for a 1.5 hour boat tour of the Tempisque River. The trip would also include two visits to Hacienda El Viejo which borders the National Park with lunch at La Casona, the two-story wooden main home built in 1881 after the boat tour.

We met our tour guide, Juan, at 7:20am in front of the resort lobby and our group of six joined another four guests for what I think ended up being a seven-hour excursion.  Juan was a former national park ranger with a passion for nature and environmentalism, but at times was a bit over-the-top, blind to reality and even ill-informed.  Our first stop was about 1/3 of the way to the park where we were scheduled to meet another couple coming from a different hotel for the tour in the small town of Filadelfia.  The stop gave us a little time to wander around the square and have our first encounter with iguanas out in the wild.  While quite exciting at first, we came to realize iguanas in Guanacaste run around like wild cats: they’re everywhere!

With our group of twelve now all on board the bus, we continued for what was about another 45 minutes along heavily rutted and muddy roads lined by sugar cane fields to Hacienda El Viejo where we’d have a chance to stretch our legs and enjoy some cold beverages before the boat tour of the Tempisque River in the adjoining Palo Verde National Park.  The view of the low lands surrounded by volcanic mountain ranges was breathtaking to say the least.

 

After another short, bumpy ride into the National Park we boarded a small motor launch for the 1.5 hour tour of the Tempisque River, a fast flowing 90-mile long waterway that is heavily silted to the point of being muddier than the Mighty Mississippi.  Originally used to support the timber industry and the movement of logs from Guanacaste Cordillera to the Gulf of Nicoya, the river is considered an important habitat for a wide variety of birds, crocodiles, monkeys, and iguanas.

“Amazingly” as soon as the boat pushed away from the pier and moved into the river the trees on the opposite side from the boat launch came alive with a family of white-faced capuchin monkey’s and perhaps a few howler monkeys.

 

So, what are the odds these monkeys just happened to be hanging out as close as they could to humans vs. being off somewhere else in the vast National Park?  Moreover, given this was our sole encounter with primates on the river tour I was left to suspect the tour operators must doing something for the monkeys to ensure visitors have something exciting to see on the tour.  I say this as we may or may not have seen one or two crocodiles in the murky water, several more iguanas, several birds and a small cluster of bats nesting on a tree.  Well, that and a lot of garbage — plastic soda and water bottles, bags, wheels from a stroller, and on and on — floating down the river which didn’t seem to phase our naturalist and tour guide all that much: “It just gets washed into the river during heavy rains.”   Our host also didn’t quite grasp the concept that it’s not appropriate to be highly disrespectful of your guest’s national leaders by going on a short tirade based on less than accurate information.  But, I’ll just leave that there for now as it was only about 5 minutes worth of narration out of our 6 hours together that were highly objectionable.

Following our boat tour we headed back to the Hacienda El Viejo where we had a very nice lunch at the aforementioned La Casona.  After lunch we were taken on a tour of the original ox-powered sugar press and given a demonstration on how sugar juice is extracted from the cane along with a taste of the raw juice.  After that we were taken down to the sabanero house where a few of the guests made corn tortillas, sampled coffee and other sugar-based snacks.

Once again, almost on cue a small family of howler monkeys appeared as we walked down to the sabanero house. They put on quite a show but were conspicuously missing when we left.  So, despite the naturalist nature of these tours and admonishment on interacting with the primates, the way the monkeys gather certainly seems to suggest an almost pavlovian behavior had been created to ensure tourists have a memorable experience and see something other than just iguanas, butterfly’s, birds and other less exotic creatures.  Remember, tourism makes up 60% of Costa Rica’s economy!

We made the 1.5 hour drive back to Secrets by way of Filadelfia where we dropped off two of our guests, and then via Cocoa Beach where another four guests were dropped off at their resort. I want to say we were back at our resort and enjoying the pool again by around 3:30pm after catching up on Email from work (ugg, it just won’t go away).

Ah, it was good to be “home” after the long excursion and surrounded by happy guests, attentive hosts and the amazing scenery at our resort.

We opted to go to the Market Cafe for the dinner buffet and then headed over to the Sugar Reef bar for a little more socializing, some Texas Hold ‘Em and dancing to the live music.  It was a great way to end a very long day.


TUESDAY, DAY 4 AT SECRETS

As we did on Sunday, we were up and out early for a 2.5 mile walk before stopping in at the Market Cafe for breakfast.  Our friends Ryan and Jeanette joined us as well.  Jeff & Sharon opted to enjoy the Seaside Grill and we all ended up back at the pool by mid-morning where we spent pretty much the rest of the day. Just so you have a better idea of the lay of the land, here’s a map of the resort with our room at the highest point in the resort pinned for reference.

Having been at the resort for three days the staff and other guests were now more friends than just other guests and staff and that made for a great time.  I tried to knock out a bit of this blog as I enjoyed the sun and that wasn’t working: too much glare.  I moved over to a small table at the Barracuda bar and that worked a lot better. Sadly, work kept creeping into the picture but not more than a 1/2 hour’s worth.  I didn’t get a lot done on the blog, just more-or-less of an outline which was good as my memory was being somewhat challenged by the long days in the sun and at the swim-up bar upon hearing the now ubiquitous question from Ryan, “Is it time?”

Debbie disappeared for a while after deciding she wanted to be pampered a bit with a facial and some other type of treatment at the spa.  I walked her over to the spa and would come and get her 90 minutes later ahead of lunch.  I’m pretty sure she was very happy with her facial and she absolutely glowed… a glow that continues to stay with her.  Then again, maybe it was just the compounding effect of being at Secrets for yet another day of doing basically nothing.

For lunch we were encouraged to give the Barefoot Grill a try and it was spectacular! Debbie and I split a burger, but it was one of the best “basic burgers” we’ve had in a long time, on par with Loco’s Willenburger. And, as anyone knows, we both love eating up at a bar and the Barefoot Grill was no exception.

The afternoon was all about the pool and somewhere around 2:00pm our friends Patti and Brad arrived to join the rest of the group.  At some point during the afternoon Jeff hosted Ryan and me for cocktails inside the Preferred Club where they had several bottles of Don Julio tequila.  Now, the Sauza 1800 silver we’d been enjoying at the Manatee and elsewhere was just fine; however, when there’s some Don Julio Anejo available just for the asking… well, there you go!  Ryan and I enjoyed a little of that while Jeff stuck to his whiskey and soda.  We probably spent about 30 minutes in the club, noting we were the only people other than our capable barkeeper… who was probably glad to have a little company.  It was a good time where we talked about tequila, Ray Kroc and Lord knows what else after the 2nd shot of Don Julio took hold: my apologies where appropriate.

We headed back to the pool after that where the girls had once again indulged in the water aerobics (I think) and may have also gone off to another dance lesson.  At some point Ryan, Jeanette and Sharon went off to a painting lesson over at the pool side pavilion.  Yup, it was just that kind of afternoon.

We finished off the day with dinner at the Seaside Grill which was open to all guests in the evening and then headed over to Sugar Reef where a 3-piece band was playing music we could dance to.  I think we may have been the last couple standing by the end of the night.


WEDNESDAY, DAY 5 AT SECRETS

I was up early which gave me time to get caught up on Email and to just take in the beautiful sunrise on a somewhat overcast morning.

Our first appointment of the day was breakfast with our friends at Aqua when it opened up around 8:00am.  That gave us plenty of time to get in our morning walk around the resort before making a final lap that would take us to Aqua.  Our friends passed us in JJ’s shuttle bus on their way to Aqua and as we thought about all we’d consumed during our time at Secrets we both agreed getting in as much walking as we could was the right call.  In fact, thinking back, the only shuttle rides we’d made were the first one up to the room when we checked-in and three times during the evening when it was raining on Sunday. Other than that, we always walked, which was no small feat given our room was at the top of 100 yard incline that had to be close to a 15% grade.

We shared a nice breakfast with our small group of friends and then wandered down the beach and over to the main pool area.  It would be fair to say Aqua was on the quiet side of the resort, adjacent to the spa and fitness center and what the resort characterizes as one of their more romantic spots.  I’m not sure we nailed the romantic spot but I did feel like we needed to get a few more photos with us in the photos to prove we really were on vacation!

The plan for the day was a shuttle ride over to Cocoa Beach where we’d walk what was described as being the “Key West like” main drive and beach area.  It was only a 15 minute ride and the plan was to leave around 10:00am, spend an hour or and hour and a half and then shuttle back to our resort for lunch.  The plan didn’t exactly play out that way due to a slight bit of confusion on the shuttle arrangements such that we finally left around 11:00am.  Things changed a little bit more once we arrived as our departure was slipped until 2:30pm, which seemed like a lot more time than we’d need at Cocoa Beach once I saw what looked like a huge tourist trap.  Nevertheless, we pressed on.

As suspected, there were about 20 shops selling all of the same “Costa Rica stuff” and I suspect a lot of it was likely made in China.  Debbie found a porcelain thimble for her mother’s collection and three little leather bracelets for the granddaughters with the Costa Rican catch phrase “Pura Vida” and some other little animal engravings on a metal plate.  I think that may have been the sum total of our acquisitions for the entire trip.  After securing the trinkets we wandered down to the beach to take in the sights and then found a small cafe & bar where we rested for a few moments.

After the refreshments we made our way back up the main drag to the Hard Rock Cafe where we’d await the arrival of our shuttle for the ride back to our resort.  It was kind of weird actually paying for a drink after being at our all-inclusive resort where we paid for nothing other than slipping some of the more attentive staff members a tip now and again.  The Hard Rock and adjacent buildings were about the only 1st world looking place in the entire area: it looked more like Florida than Costa Rica in that little section of town.  As we awaited our shuttle we learned — much to our surprise — that our friends Chuck & Julie had already arrived at the resort well ahead of their expected ETA.

Our shuttle arrived promptly at 2:30pm and we headed back “home” to find our friends Julie & Chuck and resume our pool side / in pool party in earnest.  It was good to finally have “everyone” at the resort.

Wednesday’s dinner would be the only time “everyone” would be on hand since we’d be leaving Thursday morning at 10:00am for the return trip to the airport.  Ryan, ever thoughtful, scheduled a photographer to meet us at Aqua ahead of dinner for a group photo of the Atlanta contingent who travelled down to Costa Rica to help celebrate Sharon’s 60th, Ryan & Jeanette’s 16th anniversary and Ryan’s 51st birthday… but mostly Sharon’s 60th birthday.

Interestingly enough, while Aqua was known for its excellent meals, I don’t think Debbie nor I found are meals to be as good as the ones we had at Seaside, Portofino or Hitmitsu. But the company couldn’t be beaten: it was so good to have Jeff & Sharon, Ryan & Jeanette, Chuck & Julie and Patti & Brad at the same table for a dinner before we headed home.  Just a great finale for us before we packed our bags and flew back to the US.

It was an early to bed after our dinner at the elegant hour.


THURSDAY, DAY 6 AT SECRETS & THE TRIP HOME

OMG!  We have to go home. So sad….

Even Julio and JJ were doing the sad faces when the ran into us doing our final morning walk.  Of course, that’s when I confirmed what I suspected: our “hosts with the hats” were the security team at Secrets.  They knew every guest by name, they drove the shuttle buses and were ever-present throughout the resort.  We ran into JJ, Julio, Jeff and Eli 10-15 times per day and a handful of other staff in straw Panama hats as well.  No doubt, we were beyond safe at Secrets; they have mastered the ability to combine being gracious hosts with security like I’ve never seen before and I’ve done this for a living now and again in my life.

After breakfast we donned our bathing suits for one final hour in the sun before we’d have to head to our room at 9:00am to pack and be ready to catch our shuttle bus to the airport at 10:00am.  JJ made a point of telling us he’d come and pick us up at 9:40am and bingo: he was there!

The entire immigration and customs process was not as daunting as I expected it to be in Costa Rica. However, the cost of a burger and two drinks at the airport set me back on my heels: $27.00 US. Yikes.  And when we finally boarded with our Zone 1 boarding passes assuming we’d be seated well ahead of the rest of passengers on a very full flight it all fell apart when the boarding agent slipped a plastic coated tag into Debbie’s passport singling her out for an in-depth security check that took at least 20 minutes.  Really?  This was like our Key West return flight all over again!!!  Oh well, I bit my tongue and we finally boarded the aircraft and had a comfortable flight home.

After hoofing nearly 6/10ths of a mile from our gate at Terminal E to the Customs are for Atlanta-bound passengers, the immigration process at the Atlanta airport wasn’t  overly complex but it sure seemed like there were an awful lot of “helpers” standing around doing not very much while a single Customs agent did the screening of a line of some 100 US citizens coming back into the country.  Yeah, not an efficient or cost-effective model by any measure.  Once we were through immigration we found our bags, jumped on a FastPark shuttle and were at our truck and headed for home in about 20 minutes.  We ran into a co-worker on the shuttle bus who was on his way home from a week in Oman where he had a 7-hour layover in Germany: yikes!  Our delays paled in comparison.

When I asked Debbie where she wanted to go for dinner since it was already well past 8:00pm she said JD’s BBQ.  Hmmm.  I guess we might be rednecks if after spending a week eating at high-end restaurants the first thing we want to eat back at home is BBQ!  Thankfully, we arrived a couple of minutes before their 9:00pm closing time and were able to score a couple of to-go pulled pork sandwiches and slaw.

Back at the house Debbie had just enough energy left to eat her BBQ and then headed to bed after a very long day.  It took me a couple of hours to settle down and go through Email before I was ready to call it a day, as I wanted to get a head start on the work I’d be facing early on Friday morning.


HAPPY BIRTHDAY SHARON

Now, I’d be remiss if I didn’t make a point of saying that we wish we could have stayed in Costa Rica through Sunday and helped our friend Sharon celebrate her 60th birthday on Saturday evening.  It looks like everyone had a great time on Friday & Saturday based on some of the photos that have come across the wires, er… air waves.

However, they still had a full house as Sharon’s friends Jim & Pam arrived on Friday to join the party as did Sharon’s daughter Andrea which was a total surprise for Sharon that caught her completely unaware.